64" should work nicely for 25-25.5 inch draw. I like 66" for 26-28" draw and 68 for 28-29 inch. I have close to a 30 inch draw and shoot a 69" Schulz.

Ok I just came in from shooting, I consider myself a  pretty good shot inside of 17-18 yards just picking a spot and releasing. As a matter of fact I've forced myself to ignore the tip of the arrow as it really distracted me in the past if I noticed it at all. But I recently received a book from David Miller (Shooting the American Semi Long) along with a smaller book (a pamphlet really) My method of shooting A bow and Arrow by Howard Hill. After reading them and trying seeing my arrow in my secondary vision and notice where it is all the while concentrating on my spot I really improved my shooting from 20-25 yds. Not trying to debate Hills shooting style, as a year of reading threads have taught me to steer away from that but I guess I was just really suprised at the results. But definately gonna keep working with this method  of shooting and see how it goes.

Alrighty then! Got some early morning business taken care of and got in the shop this afternoon.
Unclamped the riser block and cleaned up glue and made sure I had a smooth transition from fade out to lamination.  
 

Got the fiberglass ready to glue to the belly. I wasn't real happy with the color of brown I got. I've been getting some nice dark chocolate brown glass, but this is lighter and leans toward the red end of the brown spectrum.
 

Rubber pressure strips in place and air hose strapped down and inflated. Got a good squeeze up the sweeps of the riser with no gaps. Put the heat to it for a few hours and it's sitting cooling and curing until tomorrow morning.      
Could have used my long hose but decided to do it with the two short ones.
 

truly awesome stuff, charlie!

your shop looks like mine - BUSY!  :D

Thanks for sharing this build with us Charlie.

I will be keeping my fingers crossed for you this morning as you unwrap "the new baby".

I hope you will post up pictures of it before any of the afterbirth is cleaned off.

I have faith that it will be exactly what you planned and envisioned in your "minds eye" when you were 1st engineering it in your head.

God bless,Mudd

PS: birth weight isn't nearly as important as mature weight.....lol

Thanks for sharing your bow build Charlie, awesome and educational!
Thom

Loving the build Charlie.

I thought it was time to bring over some pictures of "The Amazon Lady-Born on the 4th of July" because I think there a few folks that come to this thread that don't really read anything else.

JD Berry Vixen 68" and 47@28











Thanks for looking!

God bless,Mudd

That is beautiful Mudd.

A few pictures from this morning....

Took the glued up blank from the form and centered a string on each end. Marked under the string at center of the bow.
 
With a true straight edge I drew a line down the length of the limb on center.
 
Marked the ends of the riser.
 
Measuring from the centerline I marked the width of the bow at the fade out... 1 1/8" wide.
 
From the center of the bow I measured 33" and marked the nock location... added an inch to bow tip.

Again from center line I measured 3/4" at the nock.
Connected the lines at the handle and at the nocks for the limb profile and ground away to the lines.... I gave up on sawing the bow out a long time ago. Fiberglass eats bandsaw blades and grinding is fast and easy.    
   
Here is the roughed out bow strung with the tiller string. Limbs bending within 1/8" of each other at this stage and plenty of weight to work with.
 

My Schulz Tembo has one lam of boo that runs down the front of the handle.  I do not see many bows made this way anymore.  What benefits or negatives are there to this design?  I assume it is more labor intensive than just glueing on the handle to all 3 lams?  I like the looks but wonder what effect there is if any of having the handle sandwiched between the limb lams?

Looks like Charlie has been working hard!

Greg,

Not sure there's any real advantage to building a bow that way. If there is clear glass on the belly it hides the ends of the fades of the riser. Some say it makes a stronger handle, but I don't buy that.
Personally I don't care for the looks as much. Just personal taste.

Looking great Charlie.  Really appreciate you sharing your time/talent with us.  I had asked about your term "Buchanan dips" earlier in your BA...not sure if you caught that question.

Mudd - might just be me, but that bow looks better in this thread.    

Looks like everything stayed where you put it Charlie... looking good!

God bless,Mudd

Awesome looking bow Mudd, I really like that white. looking forward to seeing the finished bow Charlie also enjoy watching the build.                           Your right Mudd don't read all threads but always this one!!!

Mudd is there anything between the laminations?

It looks like there is a very thin black and white stripe between each lam of bamboo and it looks great

Btw I am a huge fan of white glass awesome bow

Charlie,
What do you useto grind your limb profile?

Mudd
Love the side view your bow BOW, it dose look like there are black layers between the lambs?

The white & black strips are Wenge & White bamboo grind to .018, Also wenge incase the myrdle wood riser. All wenge fadeout. white bamboo runs next to the yew taper.

Green,

I guess I missed the question. All I know is that the guy credited with first coming off the handle with drastic dips was named Buchanon. Hence the term Buchanon dips.
That's all the information I have. May ask for more info over on the History and Collecting forum.