HH bug got me ... Part One!

leatherneck · January 23, 2011, 11:48:00 AM

I did also pick my grip and limb tips.

Hey Rob, are you tryiong to get my specs from me to ruin my surprise?

I'm still not telling what I ordered.

tradlongbow · January 23, 2011, 12:11:00 PM

Rob, I agree with you,

"the bold truth is that longer limbs and good tillering make for a good american flat longbow. can it be better than that? i think so, if the bowyer does take into consideration unique qualities of the archer."

Like I pointed out in John Schulz is book Hitting them like Howard Hill, Mr. Schulz's favorite bow was 68" for his 26" draw.

For almost the last 20years, I shot bows that where 66", 68", 69" and 70" at my 28"draw very well, but I tend to prefer the longer lengths 68" thru 70.

Darren

Bent Rig · January 23, 2011, 12:35:00 PM

Thanks Guys , just trying to get as much info as possible so when the time comes I'm ready with all my spec's and questions for the bowyer when called upon . I don't have a problem with longer .

Kelly · January 23, 2011, 12:37:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
as a personal observation over the last 55 years of messing with archery and bowhunting, guys that start off with too short and too heavy a holding weight stick bow ALWAYS increase their draw length when they up the bow length and lower the holding weight.

Amen!

Just an FYI learned from experience my first entrance into the "longbow" world came about in 1994 after 30 years shooting recurves. Was shooting a 66" 68# Gamemaster Jet at that time and had been shooting recurves of that weight, or thereabouts for over 20 years.

So, because of all the R/D trend at that time I tried a 70# 60" Pronghorn longbow. Never ever did get to a similar accrucay with that bow as my recurves because it stacked(was way too short) for my nearly 29" draw. Many said you can not shoot a longbow the same way you shoot a recurve-one had to shoot quickly, not delibertly like with a recurve. Well, I tried it that way and it was worse for me.

As the years progressed I could never get it out of my mind that the "longbow" had beaten me. Sure every other year or so I'd try another one-whatever was the latest, greatest since sliced bread model but the results were always the same.

Fast forward to 2010 and the "longbow" bug and my personal defeat with it are still forefront in my memory so decided to give it one last try. Always loved the simplicity of a "stick and string", wood arrows in a back quiver and just wondering through hill and dale ala "Witchery of Archery" style.

So what will be different with this foray into the "longbow" world this time you might ask? Well, I'm treating this venture like I've nver shot a bow before and starting with a 64", 30# @ 26" Howard Hill Big Five to learn the correct ways of the "longbow"! As I progress into this adventure there will be a Miller all bamboo and a Sunset Hill(new model) waiting to fulfill my dreams. Yep, even after 49 years of shooting the bow one can still have dreams.

Kelly · January 23, 2011, 12:55:00 PM

Here is my Hill Big Five, 64" 30# @ 26".

Here is my Miller all bamboo, 66" 50# @ 28".

My Sunset Hill, a project in waiting but will get you a picture as soon as I receive it, will be 66" and around 42# @ 28".

Rob DiStefano · January 23, 2011, 01:07:00 PM

real longbows. just gorgeous.

leatherneck · January 23, 2011, 01:21:00 PM

Nice Kelly, real nice!

leatherneck · January 23, 2011, 01:28:00 PM

Rob, I will say this, I went ahead and stayed with the locator grip. And maybe a couple other suggestions you made.

longbowben · January 23, 2011, 01:29:00 PM

Very nice

Wannabe1 · January 23, 2011, 01:30:00 PM

Great looking bows Kelly! I like the looks of the Miller.

SpankyNeal · January 23, 2011, 01:33:00 PM

Lookin good Kelly!

January 23, 2011, 02:29:00 PM

I need to clarify the statement about John's favorite bow from the early 70s. The 68" 'Big Enough', although it was his favorite length at that time, later he shot 66" and when he went to his string follow and all wood designs he was shooting 64". he maintained his 261/4" draw. I have shot bows from 96 down to less than 40 pounds and I also shoot a little over 26" draw on all of them. I tried 27" for a while with an 89 pounder and 72 pound bow, I was advised by Schulz that I was over drawing and went back to cutting my broadheads to 263/4" to the back of the blade. I pull the blade to my finger when I shoot, giving me about a 261/4" draw. I have seen a bunch of guys over bowed with heavy longbows that would jam their bow arm, collapse in the shoulders and loose draw length; if you start out light and maintain that bent bow arm and shoulder control while going up in bow weight, your shooting and your shoulder will be better off. Two of my favorite bows is a 68"Halfbreed blank tillered to a whip end for my short draw and the Timberline myrtle handled yew that I just picked up which is also 68".

Mudd · January 23, 2011, 03:31:00 PM

I may have to give the locator grip a try.

On the other hand, we all know the old saying "If it ain't broke....."..lol

God bless,Mudd

Rob DiStefano · January 23, 2011, 03:42:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Mudd:
I may have to give the locator grip a try.

On the other hand, we all know the old saying "If it ain't broke....."..lol

God bless,Mudd

it's all subjective personal preference, as with most things in life. no such thing as a better or best grip, bow, arrow, etc.

hey, are we havin' fun ............ yet?! :D

Ricker · January 23, 2011, 03:47:00 PM

Pavan that is a great reply. I like how you mentioned you whip end shaped your blank to enhance your personal draw length. Of course Schulz enjoyed the freedom to experiment and for one reason he chose a certain length and limb arc vs another. He didn't necessarily choose one length bow at his draw length to be the one and only perfect bow, but he did know how to achieve what was the best ntn length for the way he wanted to tiller a particular bow. The difference in the limb arc does not need to be a large amount different to produce fine results.
Target style (lighter arrows) vs hunting weight arrows perform better with differently a shaped limb arc, but when you tiller a bow a certain way you must change the length nock to nock to maximze efficiency and overall feel.
It is my opinion through this great thread we are all enjoying the one critically important piece of information for having a bow that is the correct length and shape is "what weight is my preferred choice of arrow".

Some like EFOC others like lighter arrows etc.
That's where the journey begins....

January 23, 2011, 03:54:00 PM

On my yew Hill, I have given it a locator that is a copy, although deeper, of the grip off my 50s 72" Bear Kodiak. I tweaked it until I need to do nothing with my bow hand to shoot. When the grip is right, it's right. I have another one that is due for tweaking when the time comes for refinishing. I am wondering how difficult it would get, when ordering, to really get fussy on particular subtleties of shape to the locator grip. Quite often when someone loves or hates a bow, it starts and ends with the grip.

Cookus · January 23, 2011, 07:17:00 PM

Okay... We've waited patiently. We need details of the Big 5's escapades in the swamp today RC!

January 23, 2011, 09:26:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by Rob DiStefano:
as a personal observation over the last 55 years of messing with archery and bowhunting, guys that start off with too short and too heavy a holding weight stick bow ALWAYS increase their draw length when they up the bow length and lower the holding weight.

Yes..this is the truth. When I shot the "all to short" bear recurves for too many years, I trained myself to pull against the stacking. It was all we had...did not know there were actually bows with longer limbs. Years later, when I found there were actually more comfortable (appropriate) bows to shoot, I found myself drawing a full 32"...no kidding. :p

Took a couple years with good bows to rectify this problem..now shooting 29" pretty consistently.

January 23, 2011, 09:42:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by SpankyNeal:
Guys the facts are that alot of Hill bows today are built to a formula for the masses! Riser length, limb tapers, and tiller all have to be adjusted to an archers EXACT draw, hand width, and grip depth and not just to bow length in order to get the proper arc in the limbs for EACH archer! ......

Spanky

Dang..if this is true, then I best not ever consider buying a used bow in the classifieds...

Bummer!! "[dntthnk]"

RC · January 23, 2011, 10:17:00 PM

I would`nt hesitate to buy a hill bow in the classifieds or any bow I wanted and could afford for that matter.A lot of "proper" fitting can go into a bow but truth is one thats the correct length for your draw or close will shoot plenty good.RC