HH bug got me ... Part One!

January 22, 2011, 08:15:00 PM

RC
Dandy!!!

Could use some specs and a little more on your impression...how does it compare with your other bows?

Cookus · January 22, 2011, 08:41:00 PM

Nice looking bow RC! I'm sure tomorrow will be awesome! Take your camera and post some pictures! By the way, are you shooting 2016's out of her?

RC · January 22, 2011, 09:02:00 PM

Thanks Guys. It is a fine bow. First time I`ve had one with a staight grip. It feels good but I think I would rather have a slight locator. Regardless it shoots where I`m looking.
Its 55@28 and 66" long. I`m shooting goldtip trads 35/55 With 250 grains up front. Not as heavy as I like for this kinda bow. I`m gonna get some wood arrows of some sort I think. Its been a while since I`ve hunted with wood but I`m kinda wanting to. I got some Ace 200 grain heads on the way I want to put through a big boar.I`ve found two Big Mature pigs and I`m gonna be after them .RC

Mudd · January 22, 2011, 10:52:00 PM

RC you done good buddy!! Awesome looking bow!

Pictures of yours made me get an indoor range set up. Actually I set up two one I can only get 4-5 yards and the other is 9 yards.

I'm used to shooting a lot at 33 yards so this is a challenge.

"Keeper Kat" is as sweet at short distances as she is outside...lol

Thanks for sharing RC.

I look forward to seeing the pig(s) that get introduced to your new bow.

God bless,Mudd

Benny Nganabbarru · January 22, 2011, 11:13:00 PM

Good luck, RC!

leatherneck · January 23, 2011, 12:27:00 AM

Great looking bows fellows!

stik&string · January 23, 2011, 12:57:00 AM

Thanks to everyone for the vast amount of information shared in this thread. That "Hill Bug" has biten me pretty badly, and now I feel I can make a more educated choice.

newtotrad · January 23, 2011, 01:00:00 AM

I'll second what stik&string just stated.

RC · January 23, 2011, 01:17:00 AM

I hear Big Jim is gonna work up a Hill style bow in a little while.I`ve done got dibs on the first one..RC

tg2nd · January 23, 2011, 02:54:00 AM

My drawlength is 25", heigth is 5'10", Glove Size is "S". My Hill/Hill-Style bows are 62" to 65" with riserlengths of 13" to 14". The shorter ones work better for me.

Bent Rig · January 23, 2011, 10:08:00 AM

why isn't any of this stated in the catolog or online - how to fit the correct bow to one specific DL for maxiumum performence ? It seems to me that there are an awful lot of people whom didn't know these facts and bought the wrong length bows . Even , I presume that they called and talked to a bowyer when they made their orders , unless they just made what the customer wanted without advising otherwise . So for example , I pull 27.50"to 28" - by what I have read on hear I would want a 69"(thats what Howard used) bow - what would be the nock to nock length on that bow - 67" ? Help !

Rob DiStefano · January 23, 2011, 10:18:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by Bent Rig:
why isn't any of this stated in the catolog or online - how to fit the correct bow to one specific DL for maxiumum performence ?

good question. some bowyers/companies offer guidelines for draw length versus bow length, some don't.

It seems to me that there are an awful lot of people whom didn't know these facts and bought the wrong length bows .

absolutely true, but less so from a private bowyer who more than likely would contact the buyer should the spex show a 29" draw for a 66" hill style longbow

Even , I presume that they called and talked to a bowyer when they made their orders , unless they just made what the customer wanted without advising otherwise . So for example , I pull 27.50"to 28" - by what I have read on hear I would want a 69"(thats what Howard used) bow - what would be the nock to nock length on that bow - 67" ? Help !

firstly, bow lengths should be as ntn. that would be an amo given. second, some archers have no problem with a 29" draw and a 66" hill longbow. all hill longbows are not alike, not all have the same limb widths, core depths and tillering. without trying an example of a bowyer, yer playing money and time games. when in doubt, ALWAYS go longer. i have a 29" draw and a 68" craig hill longbow works just fine. i've got a miller ol' tom on order and that WILL be 70" ntn. hope this helps.

SpankyNeal · January 23, 2011, 10:29:00 AM

Guys the facts are that alot of Hill bows today are built to a formula for the masses! Riser length, limb tapers, and tiller all have to be adjusted to an archers EXACT draw, hand width, and grip depth and not just to bow length in order to get the proper arc in the limbs for EACH archer! You absolutly will not fit to the same length bow from one bowyer to the next and get optimum performance from each. A 68-69" bow might work fine for you from one bowyer, but from the next it either stacks or is too slow and thumpy! As I stated previously, the difference in a Hill bow that has truly been fit to you and one that has not, is like the difference between night and day...there is NO comparison! As for the stuff printed in older writings from Hill and Schultz, they didn't write everything they knew and they continued to refine there bows after those texts were written. The later information was passed only to a select few people especially from John who was very tight-mouthed about his designs. In his later years as John refined his designs and started to incorporate different profiles, he actually shot bows much shorter and lighter than he did early on! I say all this to remind us all that designs and materials continue to evolve making your bowyer the only true source of accurate up to date information for what you need now!

Spanky

rollin · January 23, 2011, 10:31:00 AM

Ive only shot recurves and with my DL=27.5" will I lose some DL going to a bow like this?

SpankyNeal · January 23, 2011, 10:33:00 AM

If you shoot with proper Hill form you may lose up to an inch of draw, depending upon how straight your bow arm is with the recurve.

Spanky

rollin · January 23, 2011, 10:41:00 AM

Thought I had read that somewhere.Thanks.

Rob DiStefano · January 23, 2011, 10:53:00 AM

i could care less about hill, schulz and 'hill form'. i don't want 'hill form', i don't like 'hill form' at all. i like MY form.

MY form is all that matters and that means having an american flat longbow that WORKS. for me. not you. or hill. or schulz.

the bold truth is that longer limbs and good tillering make for a good american flat longbow. can it be better than that? i think so, if the bowyer does take into consideration unique qualities of the archer.

the rest is, well, subjective rhetoric and diatribe. imho.

Rob DiStefano · January 23, 2011, 11:13:00 AM

as a personal observation over the last 55 years of messing with archery and bowhunting, guys that start off with too short and too heavy a holding weight stick bow ALWAYS increase their draw length when they up the bow length and lower the holding weight.

leatherneck · January 23, 2011, 11:38:00 AM

Bent Rig-If you contact Jason or Craig at HH they will walk you right through the process. Nobody asked me what the size of my hand was or anything like that. I gave Jason my draw length(27 to 27.5)and the weight I wanted(54#'s) and he made the recommendation for me(64 to 66"bow). Never owning a Hill bow before I took his advice and ordered a 66" Wesley Special 54@27. These guys know how to build a bow and know whats best for the customer.
As far as all this technical stuff guys are talking about it is very interesting to me. It has taught me alot about bows in general. But I buy a bow to hunt with and thats it. So my opinion is if MY Hill bow shoots where I want it too and it's comfortable to me then thats all that matters. If I want to use a stay puff marshmallow grip and it works then thats what I'll use. Point is,this is all good stuff here and teaches people what COULD go into choosing a bow. As for me,I let the bowyer tell me what size I need and they haven't failed me yet. This is all my opinion of course.

Rob DiStefano · January 23, 2011, 11:46:00 AM

the additional things i request when ordering out a craig hill longbow, any model ...

* narrow throat locator handle, non-tear drop cross section

* shelf plate wood cut no more than 1/16" proud of the limb centerline

* tiller to 30" (1" past my draw length)

* thinned limb tip overlays