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INFO: Trad Archery for Bowhunters



Need parts for Bear Take Down

Started by Mike/Columbia Basin, May 20, 2010, 09:18:00 PM

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Mike/Columbia Basin

Just received a B metal handle take down to look at and I think it is missing some parts. The bow is in pretty rough condition so a refinish is needed. It has the metal side plate on the riser and I was wondering if there was an adjustment screw (burger button?) or spring behind the plate. It is also missing the rubber arrow rest and is in need of a new grip, the old one is pretty loose. I would like locate the needed pieces before I commit to buy so any info would be appreciated.  

Mike

shaft slinger

should have a nylon srew in back of the plate,don't under stand the rubber arrow rest.
you should be able to tighten up the grip with some weld-wood contact cement, pictures would help  :archer:

d. ward

yes Mike there should be a nylon set screw behind the plate.Myself I normaly use barge cement on the grips and the rubber arrow rest may be hard to find.....but I'am pretty sure a guy could find one.I do have a couple complete bear take downs bd

Warberg

Pryor. ? Hope the family's doing well if this is the Mike from M Lake. Your truly, from one of the  Coasty Boys.  lol Good luck on the search

Mike/Columbia Basin

Well I found a place to buy the nylon set screws, just have to buy 25 at a time.

Check your email bd .

Yep, this the Mike from ML.

Tom I.

The "rubber arrow rest" you're refering to, I think, is the plastic shelf cover that was on the bows...correct?  It's not unusual for these to be missing.  My mag riser came without one.
I used a thick piece of leather, burnished it's edge well and glued it in place, and glued a Bear hair rug on top of that....works well and looks good too.  

Tom I.

Ceb

I actually prefer to remove the rubber arrow rest and replace it with a rug type rest on my bows. Less noise to draw the arrow across and keeps the arrow closer to my hand than just adding a rug to the top.

Tom I.

I thought he arrow aligned itself with the strike plate a little better with the added height and that's why I added the leather.
Tom I.

Ceb

Well, you're probably right, but it works for me.

Earl E. Nov...mber

Yep I take them off, and put a piece of Velcro down. Actually has a bit more radius.
Although the nylon screw is correct, I prefer a metal Allen head set screw.
Socket is much more durable and works as well.

No I don't want to sell them unless you buy the whole riser.
I would like and original metal side plate though.
Many have died for my freedom.
One has died for my soul.

Ceb

I also need a metal side plate if anyone has any. Or a suggestion on any other replacement ideas.

OutbackMan

If by metal side plate you mean strike plate they are very easy to make if your not concerned w/having original parts.  I simply got a 12" piece of brass stipping from the hardware, cut it to size, eyeballed and bent by hand, rounded the back edge, sprayed w/Plasti-Dip, and then covered w/velcro.  I used a metal set screw (also from hardware) to make it operational.  If interested I have approx. measurements and "instructions" on how to fabricate I can send anyone who wants it.  Good luck.

PS...if your interesed in how mine looks check out my "Newbie Bear Takedown A Mag Refinish" thread on here.
N.R.A. Life Member
N.A.H.C. Life Member
Buckeye Big Buck Club Member

Earl E. Nov...mber

Actually a 3/4" wide piece of banding material makes and excellent replacement.. Bing basic spring steel it's  a bit tough to work, but it can be done. Definitely pass for original out side of two feet.
Hardest part is getting a good counter sink on the screw holes.
Many have died for my freedom.
One has died for my soul.

Ceb

I had thought of using banding material, its tough and should work great. Should be able to lay out and drill the holes and then use a center punch to give a bit of countersink on the holes

OutbackMan, that was a great job you done on that bow.

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