I've used my miter saw with a 80 tooth finish blade, but still one frays now and again. picked up one of those mini saws at harbor freight, but the steel blade dulled after cutting two arrows. What's the best saw?

I use a apple archery arrow cut off saw.It never leaves a splenter or a fray.

I've cut a few with a carbide blade (used to cut ceramic tile) on a hack saw.  Not the best but if you keep it slow it works ok...Van

I spin the shaft in my cresting machine and cut them with a dremel tool with a cutoff disk.  Wear a dust mask!

I think the high speed abrasive wheels may work ok ?

Dremmel mounted on my homemade arrow cutting jig.

I find that a 5 point per inch rip saw used very very fast works wonderfully.

Dremmel cut off wheel used on a roto zip mounted, it on a board, has a plastic hood attached to a vac. not bad for make do.

Toothless diamond blade in my chop saw seems to work pretty well.

Grinder wheel.  Use the corner of the wheel to take a 1/8" off longer than needed, and square it off with the wheel edge by spinning it in my hand held against my hip.  

Done hundreds this way.  Gets a perfectly square cut too.  Sometimes use the air cut-off tool as well.

Apple Archery arrow cutoff saw.  Once you have one you will quickly realize how indispensable they really are.  The cost is quickly justified when, for example, bareshafting an arrow.  The saw uses an abrasive cutting wheel and will cut wood, aluminum, and carbon.

  Apple Archery Saw

I used the little harborfreight saw but use the abrasive blades for it.You can buy the blades on ebay.It will work fine then.

I bought a harborfrieght also and got the abrasive wheels and they work great and 1/3 of an apple saw cost:-)

Ditto for the Harbor Freight "el cheapo" saw.  Works great on carbon and alum.

Another Apple Archery Fan. If you have shooting partners that live close you can split the cost if needed.

Yep, Harbor Freight with the blade that came with it works just fine on alum or carbon.

Dremel with a fiber wheel works great for me!

I use a fine tooth hacksaw blade.  I wrap about half of it with electrical tape to form a handle.  Put a wrap of masking tape around the shaft where the cut is to be made keeps it from fraying.  After the cut I use a mill-bastard file to clean it up and make sure it's square, easy and cheap.  I've done dozens this way.

I can't stand it!!
Has any one considered why all carbom makers recomend a high speed thin abrasive cut off wheel?
They don't sell them, so the reason must be that it is the best way to cut carbon shafts without ruining them .  Things like hack saws , thick blades,and grinding wheels shred the inside of the shaft.

If you have a bench grinder get a ZIP disc to use for cutting. Discs of 3/64 and thinner come with arbour sizes to fit any grinder/saw from 1/4" to 3/4".

I have plans to make a saw on my site from a sewing machine motor for free.  This is what is on the Apple saw. Take off the motor and read the lable. "Singer". You can get the Apple disc and the arbour to mount it on your sewing machine motor from any archery shop or make your own coupling.
Dremmel tools, die grinders all can be clamped down and used with a cutting disc.

Using things like hack saws on  carbon arrows is like using an AXE on wood shafts.

I am all for saving money , but for heavens sake it is not an expensive proposition to do it right.
 The unfortunate thing about the net is the bad advice that is given. I have received a hard drive full of Email asking why carbon arrows are getting the insert pushed up inside or pulling out. There are 2 causes, the glue is no good, or the inside wrap is loosened from poor cutting and lost it's bond to the outer wrap.

When you do cut a carbon shaft with the right disc, set it up so that the disc just goes thru the wall and rotate the shaft to complete the cut.
Making a straight thru cut damages the inside layer of the shaft. You may not see the damage, or you may see fibers that are fraying from the inside. Frequently this results in an insert being pushed up on a hard impact, or the insert pulling out with carbon fibers still attached to it. In other words it delaminates.
Here are the gluse that I have had failures with. We read every day someone says they use these with no trouble. We also read that they fail!!
Archery pro shops love glues that fail, great for sales, and they can say " wow your bow is powerfull" "better get more expensive shafts for that baby"
They also like to glue them up and say go shoot, so they don't have to store them while they glue cures.
These fail, some right away, others last a few momths before the glue gets brittle.
hot melts
crazy glue
CA glues thick & thin
loctite black and  clear in every type, thick and thin.
5 min, 10 min, and 1 hour epoxy
ferrel tite

The glues I have found that do work and last are 24 hour slow cure  flexible or impact resistant epoxy.
I use the Epoxy from Golf Works called "Shafting Epoxy". Any golf pro shop has it for attaching golf club heads to carbon shafts.


Pete

I use an Apple.