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bare shaft tuning

Started by kmunch, August 26, 2010, 10:57:00 AM

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kmunch

When I try to bare shaft tune my bow I keep comming out a little nock high is that accecptable

Andy Cooper

Hi KMunch,

I'm just learning about bare shaft tuning myself. I've been using OL Adcock's method. He advocates shooting 3-4 identical arrows (of each: both fletched and unfletched), then comparing the relationship of the groups. He also says not to pay much attention to the angle at which the bare shafts stick into the target.

If the fletched arrows are grouping below the bare shafts, then the nocking point needs to be raised. If the fletched arrows are grouping above the bare shafts, then the nocking point needs to be lowered.

The entire process is written at:

http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

Hope this helps. There are others here who are vastly more experienced than am I, so hopefully, they'll chime in too!
:campfire:       TGMM Family of the Bow       :archer:      

My Father's bow rack is the sky.

cbCrow

Sounds like real good advise to me. Great site for this knowledge.

ishoot4thrills

QuoteOriginally posted by Andy Cooper:
Hi KMunch,

I'm just learning about bare shaft tuning myself. I've been using OL Adcock's method. He advocates shooting 3-4 identical arrows (of each: both fletched and unfletched), then comparing the relationship of the groups. He also says not to pay much attention to the angle at which the bare shafts stick into the target.

If the fletched arrows are grouping below the bare shafts, then the nocking point needs to be raised. If the fletched arrows are grouping above the bare shafts, then the nocking point needs to be lowered.

The entire process is written at:

 http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm  

Hope this helps. There are others here who are vastly more experienced than am I, so hopefully, they'll chime in too!
Excellent advice right there! That's the same guide I use and it works real well for me and saves much time.
58" JK Traditions Kanati Longbow
Ten Strand D10 String
Kanati Bow Quiver
35/55 Gold Tip Pink Nugents @ 30"
3 X 5" Feathers
19.9% FOC
49# @ 26.75"
165 FPS @ 10.4 GPP (510 gr. hunting arrow)
171 FPS @ 9.7 GPP (475 gr. 3D arrow)
3 Fingers Under

Eugene Slagle

I've been using this info to tune my bows for over 25 years & trust me it works for both traditional & wheeled bows.
The next step I take is the broadhead tuning & I strive to have my broadheads hit the same group as the target pointed arrows do & when I have achieved that I'll get a few arrows wet as all get out to have my feathers matted down & do it all again to be sure that when I launch a broadhead I know for sure it's going where I point it at.
Zona Custom Recurve: 60" 49# @ 27.5".
Sky Sky Hawk Recurve: 60" 47# @ 27.5".
Genesis 27:3 Now therefore, please take thy weapons, thy quiver and thy bow, and go out to the field, and hunt game for me.

Bobaru

I put broadheads on my arrows about the first week in August.  Then I needed a new string.  First, the new string caused some strange arrow flight.  I fixed that by retuning.  Still, I  have imperfect broadhead flight that I've been working on.  This thread has been very helpful.  

Some arrows are not helical fletched - have a 4 degree offset.  Some times those arrows corkscrew through the air.  I thought the individual arrows may have been defective.  It appears the better answer is that the arrows and bow aren't fully tuned to each other.  

I like the idea of wetting the fletching.  I also see now that shooting the arrows with offset is probably a good thing - to see if I'm out of tune.  

I can clearly tell the difference between offset and helical in flight!  The helical covers a lot of sins.
Bob


"A man has to control himself before he can control his bow." Jay Massey

weedwacker

Most of my bare shafts hit a little nock high and I try to get them a little weak.  When fletched they fly like darts.  Good luck.

Chub

i also use paper tuning for nock problems

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