I'm getting what I feel is excessive wear to the sideplate on my arrow shelf.  Also occasionally a little slapping sound.  The arrow has just a little fishtailing the first 5 feet or so but corrects fairly quick.  By the time it enters the target at 5 yards, the arrow is straight and the nock is pointing straight back at me. Is this a sign of spine error or operator error?  Even with a very loose grip I still have the same result, so I do not think that I am torqueing the bow upon release.  If it is spine, should I go stiffer or weaker?  Any and all suggestions appreciated.

It is a spine problem and it would appear you are to stiff on the spine.  A properly flexing arrow will have the fletching arc'd away from the riser as it passes by the riser on the your bow.  A spine stiff arrow will have the fletching end of the arrow bent towards the riser as it passes.  If you are getting hits ( slaps ) on the riser you are way stiff.  Throw some extra weight on the front and see what happens.  By extra weight, I would be adding 50 grains to 100 grains up front.  It may correct the problem.  Otherwise by a weaker spined arrow.

Really need more details Doc.  Bow weight and arrow spine and length.  This can also be caused by too low of a brace height.  A low brace height will hold the arrow to the centerline of the bow longer and it doesn't have time to flex out of the way.

Raise your brace height until you get to the bows'max brace height.  If you still have contact, then start adding weight.  Bill

I raised the brace height in 1/8" increments.  I ended up 1/8" past the recommended max height, but it helped straighten out the arrow plus made the bow quieter.  I am shooting a three piece longbow 50# at 27 inches.  I have scaled it so I know that the weight is true.  I had a bunch of 2114 XX75 shafts and cut some to 27 1/2".  Do you think that they would be too stiff or could I put enough weight up front to make them work?  If not, what would you recommend.

Yep,  I'd say too stiff!  Try a 1916 or at most a 2016.  Your 2114s will need LOTS of point weight -- like maybe a small anvil?

Doc - Most of my 50 pound range bows like 1916s and 2016s and I draw 29.5.  With your shorter draw length I'd think 1916s are your starting point for Aluminum arrows.

moebow,
 What do you think would be a good place to start with carbon.  If I'm gonna have to start over with new arrows, I think that carbon would be the way to go.

Doc,  I'll defer to others here on the forum about carbons.  I've NEVER had a good experience with them and will not use them.  Others are very happy with carbons and could advise you much better than I.  I like wood and aluminums as that is what I've used since high school in the early 60's.  I fall into the "old dog, new tricks" category.

That said, 1916s have a .623 published spine deflection rating and a 10 grain per inch weight.  2016s are .531 and 10.6 grains per inch.  Carbon has a different recovery rate than wood or aluminum but some where in that range ought to get you in the ballpark.