I couldn't see what you're using now for a strike plate, but I assume you're using some thin material to get the arrow as far over to the right as possible.

If you can find some material that has some "give" in it to use for your strike plate, like thick fleece or felt, it will cause the arrow to move to the right.  You would think that because of the thickness of the material, it would move your arrows to the left, but because of the arrow dynamics compressing the material, it moves the arrows to the right.  You mentioned you had tried a carpet rest, and I don't know if you mean you just tried it for your rest or you tried it for your strike plate, but something like that might work.

You could try using an arrow with slightly less diameter shaft, and/or slightly weaker in spine.  I know your arrows are bareshafting perfectly now, but adding feathers stiffens the shaft a little, so it doesn't hurt for your bare shafts to show slightly weak, and that will also move the impact to the right.

I am using the carpet as a strike plate.

I never thought of the feathers stiffening the shaft.

Maybe I will by something like an easton axis arrow with a smaller shaft diameter

I certainly don't have the eyes or experience that alot of others have here, but it looks to me like on the release your string hand comes away from your face and then gets pulled back in.  I could be wrong, though.  Tough to say from the side.

QuoteOriginally posted by McDave:
Another thing that could cause misses to the left is shooting with a straight bow arm, which can cause your bow hand to recoil to the left on release.  

I experienced the same thing when I first started shooting. I was straight arming my bows and my arrows consistently shot left no matter what. I agree with trying to put a little bend in your bow arm. Just a slight bend at the elbow helped me dramatically.

Just for kicks, try a much heavier point.  If your bow is not centershot or not cut much past center, you may be overspined.  Go to O.L. Adcock's site and use his bare shaft planing method to see if your shafts really bare shaft as well as you think.  I shoot a 50lb recurve @28", and draw about 28 1/2-3/4" (52lbs), and shoot CE 150's 29.25" w/ 175 grains up front.  If you have a dacron string or a low performance bow, you are almost certainly overspined, which will cause you to shoot left.  It is worth a shot. . .

The little head "duck" into the arrow  as you reach anchor is keeping the rear of the arrow to the right of the point, so in effect you have the arrow pointed left...this is always a problem with very high anchors, as the face gets wider the higher up you go, therefore moving the rear of the arrow to the right.... Assuming you tuned with the correction spine for your setup...simply move your head(and anchor) to the left.

If it's not your spine not your bow arm.Then you have to be rolling your string at release.Use'ly most shooters do it a little but our hand eye cornation takes it up.With time we stop doing it.And our hand eye cornation moves with it.Dose that make any sense.Really bad cases will make you shoot left.Of these three things.The last is the least suspected and happens the most.I don't know if any of these three things are your problem.But there a good place to start.

aim more to the right.  :D