My arrows are hiting the left side of my arrow rest,just above my hand(Im a right handed shooter). Im shooting a new to me Shrew, 62@28,55/75's with 250 gns up front, cut to 29"...arrows are porpoising(sp?),no matter where I set the nock. This is the first time Ive ran into this while tuning,any info would be appreciated. Thanks

Classic signs of a stiff arrow...but could also be bow hand torque.

Thanks shoot08, Thats what I was thinking, more likely torque in my case. Was shooting a PLX with a little different grip,so trying to get used to this one..Ill try adding some wt up front this pm and see what happens.

interesting. I've had the same problem. Bottom right side of arrow (about 3:00 on arrow)has a streak from rubbing on outside of shelf.Have you had any luck curing this problem?

No, still making light contact with the shelf..Ive tried many different spines, held the bow every way imaginable,rotated feathers,nocks are loose.When barshafting my bare shafts are grouping with my fletched out to 20 yds,but all arrows are porpoising regardless of nock point position...? Dont know what else to try but take a hammer to it.

I have the same problem. I think it must be some kind of form problem or pressure on the nock at full draw?

What's the highest nock point that you've tried?

Have you messed with your brace height?

Is your Shrew a longbow or recurve?  55/75 Goldtips I think would be light for the bow your shooting.  I shoot 55/75 Goldtips out of my 54#@28" Shrew longbow with 145 grains up front cut to 29" and get great flight and no wear marks on my rest.  If you are shooting split finger you should be about 1/4"-3/8" above center for your nock point and 7"-7.5" on your brace height.  Of course this is figuring your shooting a Shrew Longbow.  I would go heavier on your spine and see what that gives you.  You could drop your point weight but I suspect you will have to jump up to 75/95 to get Goldtips to fly decent from that bow.  Feel free to ask more questions or if I were you I would give Ron LaClair a call direct.  He would be more than happy to help you out.  Good luck.

Tim

Thanks all, I am shooting a Shrew Longbow.Never really thought of going up to 75/95,just assumed they would be way to stiff, But Im willing to try anything now. think ill order some 7595's and some axis 340's just to see if the slim diam. will make a difference. Dan : I have moved the brace hgt from 7-7.5 many times...Guess ill call Ron tommorrow....thanks everyone  Any more ideas any one , just throw it out there, Imm willing to try it   Shane

Would love to know the answer to this, I've worn out my arrow rest, 54# at 28", 55/75 GT, 580 grain total. I quit worring with it just started shooting, let us know when you find your answer.

longbow55, Im waiting on some GT 75/95's, Ill let u know what happens....thanks everyone.

I have same problem with Black Swan 55# @ 28", draw 29", FF string. I'm shooting goldtip 55/75 with 100gn insert and 300gn point, 31.25" length which I thought were weak. I tried stiffer 75/95 goldtips but rest strike and arrow flight was worse (arrow movement is up and down not fishtail). I also tried different nock points. I can't figure it out. I don't have this problem with other bows I shoot.

Same here CEO, Always tuned using O.L.'s planning method to minimize the need for perfect form-lord knows mines not perfect- have always managed to get good arrow flight with my longbows,this one has me stumped though...

Some bows need a high nock point. I'd start at 5/8" and work from there. I had an old Bear that I had to set at 1" to get it tuned.

If you tuned your bareshaft to hit with a fletched group, then put feathers on, your arrow would become too stiff after fletching.  You have to tune the arrow slightly weak before fletching - 3-4" right of the group @ 20 yards.

Also, if you are torquing the string upon release, even slightly, you can have he same problem.  Watch for excess third finger pressure/contact.  It might not have shown up with more forgiving bow/arrow.

Bradd you are probably right about string torque being the cause of rest strike, at least in my case. I do get a sore third finger when I shoot this bow.

This may be my problem too ( string torque),Ill get someone to watch me today. This bow is 4" shorter than any of my others, with a different grip.Ive been so preoccupied with this shelf contact thing,I could be screwing up my shot and not even be aware of it. By the way..What could I use on my shelf to mark my arrow so I can tell where the contact is being made ?

What nocks are you shooting in the Goldtips? Also how do you have your string set up? If you are running a single nocking point on the string try and using two of them. One above and one under. Nocks in the arrows have a ton to do with arrow flight, in the past I used the Slim line nocks from Carbon Express in Goldtips. Just seemed more consistant. Shoot me your address and I'll throw some your way. Hope this helps,
Ed Schlimme
57# Shrew Samuri 60" bow
Axis 340 31.5" long
225 grains up front
3 fletch 5.5" LW Hard Helical

took me a while to tune my shrew
my specs are very similar to yours
i shoot beman mfx 340 29 1/4" 4x4"fletch
350grs up front

if you shoot 3 feathers shoot cock feather "in" that solved a LOT of my problems