I used the family scale and measured about 41# at 26"

Nice looking bow, seems to shoot well also. Congrats!!

Ok I'm gonna try the mollegabet.  I have some cool looking linen to back it with.  I'll post a build on it if it doesn't explode. d;^)

Looking at this build, I am wondering about the recurve style tips.  Do they have to be same wood or can they be layered with other woods mainly for cosmetics.

Matt

the glued on micro recurves are non working so they can be any type of wood you want.

I am new to tradgang. I have been shooting traditional for about 20  years now and have finally become interested in trying to make my own bow. I want to have that connection that only making your own could have. I am in Vancouver Washington and was wondering if you know anyone close enough to drive to for a class. I don't want to " wing it" for the first bow. I need to learn some before trying it on my own. I would appreciate any help.

Forgot.... please send me a PM or e-mail me at kingvw1@yahoo.com    Thanks all!!

Mike trying it for the first time is all about the experience. Follow 4est's thread here and you'll have a bow.

Pretty everyone that posted pics was in your shoe's

Go grad a board and go for it

A question for 4est or whoever can answer:  What about a pyramid red oak bow that's about 1 1/4 inch at fades to 1/2 inch at tips?  Will this work if i make the belly thin/flat enough?  Should i use the pyramid uniform thickness, or more of a tapered thickness with these width dimensions?  I'm using a piece i was gonna layout for a somewhat elb profile for my wife, but she wants a handle with fades, etc., so i'm changing it up.  Wanna keep the draw light for now, bout 20-25#.

I think I built one pretty close to that about a year and a half ago and it turned out nice....had about a thousand shots or more run through it. I think it might be about 28# at 28in.

Thanks West. Nice to know someone's gone before where you're headed!  My first two flatbows are still functioning beautifully, but my last two, which were elb experiments (modified for red oak) blew on me, so i'm a little apprehensive about this one.  Worst case scenario, it doesn't work and i get to build another!  Lookin forward to trying this pyramid on a larger bow after this!  :D

Let's say a guy is kind of lacking in the power tool area. Could a hand held jig saw be used instead of a bandsaw? I am referring to the handle cutouts and fade cutouts. I will be using my skilsaw for cutting out the limbs so no worries there. But that is the only area that I have seen that I would need a special tool for. Well not really need, but to make it go faster.

hardwaymike:  see page 12  

Mike,
Jigsaw takes a lotta wood fast, so if you do be super careful and slow and leave plenty of line.  Most would probably say don't do it.  I used one on my second bow for the handle cutout like your saying, wound up going a little to far in on the back side of the handle, but was able to correct it with the shaping.  I use a small curved stanley sureform for the handle profile (don't have a good rasp yet).  Cost about $5 at depot and takes some elbow grease.  Maybe do a practice run on a scrap piece b4 you go for it?  I've only got 4 bows under my belt, so take it with a shaker of salt  

Thanks guys!

Hi 4est

I have a oak board w/ good grain that I had salvaged. It had brad nail holes in it so I worked around them and and ended up with 68"long  9" riser, 4 1/2" handle, 1 3/4 fades to 1/2" tips. Cause this is not as wide at the fades as your build along bow and I have changed the handle size do I make my limb thickness the same 15/32 or thicker.. Thanks your friend Chuck

A page back K-Hat and WestTexas built a bow with about the same dimensions. Can I up the Lbs to about 40-45lbs or better if I back the bow with Paper,rawhide, or denim? Also should I taper my profile? Cant wait much longer I'm chomping at the bit to cut it out.. Thanks Guys Chuck

crgibson:  If you made the bow narrower than the buildalong, then I'd made it a full 1/2" thick for the entire length of the bow (minus the fades, obviously).  However, wooden bows don't follow a recipe, so this is only a starting point.  A lot of factors come into play when actually nailing a target weight/draw length.  Also, paper, rawhide, denim, linen, silk, etc. are all protective backings and will NOT raise the draw weight effectively.  They simply help protect against a splinter raising on the back of the bow.  

Hope this helps.  Best of luck.

Regards

Happy so far the way its turning out. 68" 67"NTN 1 3/4 Fades to 1/2" tips, and 1/2" profile. Shot 20 arrows at about 26" 27" has taken about 1" of set. I have no scale thinking its around 40+lbs. my brace is at 7 7/8 is that to high? Thanks for looking, Could use some advice              [/IMG]

Hope the pix copy here it go's  Thanks Chuck  

Thanks for sharing, Chuck.  Although the pictures look small, it looks as if it's a well-built bow.  I really like the riser...much better than the one in the buildalong.  I would say that the brace height is much too high, though.  You'll shorten the life, increase the set, and/or decrease the efficiency of the bow with a brace height that high. Got any full draw pics?  Again, NICE job!