I'd use Osage myself. It's super hard, maybe even tougher than walnut? Not sure on that, but it's tough for sure.

I dont have acsess to osage without ordering it from someone,{im cheap,,] I got the walnut glued up today,Ill work it tommorow and post pics. Hopefully ill get off some arrows as well.

QuoteOriginally posted by Ricky Wallace:
I dont have acsess to osage without ordering it from someone,{im cheap,,] I got the walnut glued up today,Ill work it tommorow and post pics. Hopefully ill get off some arrows as well.

Too bad you don't live closer, you could come over and take home an armload of off fall from my staves.

time to move to missouri ... lol...

Hows this? I have a little twist problem on the bottom limb,but I think I can fix it.It is pulling bewtween 30& 35 pounds which is ok with me

I think it looks real good Ricky. Have you shot it yet?

Yeah,I put about a dozen shots thru it,I was pleased! That twist bothers me,I want to get that taken care of before I shoot any more,I have a snakeskin coming to put on the back,that will look good I think.

notice the battle wound on the left finger, hope thats not going to be the only blood drawn by such a pretty bow.
well done, these are prettiest gaggle of board bows i have ever seen!!!!
well done to 4est too!!!!

Yeah Buddy!! We couldnt do without 4est!! He is a good teacher! This bow is intended to be a gift for my Chief,,but Im not so sure now!! I may have to keep it!  

you know, paul comstock says that a bit of natural twist in a stave is not a problem, however if it was due to the tillering, i would fix it, just check either side on the offending limb for thickness, if one is a tad thicker , sneak it down with a scraper, you will be surprised how little you have to take off, make sure you exercise it well after each tiny bit, wood "training" becomes very apparent with an exercise like this- its easy to land up with twist in the other direction if you take too much off, and will only notice it after the wood settles in during the exercising.
wayne

Ricky, with everything you have been through....I mean losing a finger and all.      

Ricky I 2nd that praise to 4est. He really has helped give me confidence and I am having a great time tinkering in the garage with the new band saw and sander.
4est has put together a great build along.  

Ha Ha,There is some feelings with this one,My Daddy taught me to keep going no matter what,If he was still here he would shake his head at me!the finger is a minor injury compared to others over the last 35 or so years!Im not hunting this year but yall just watch what goes on next season!      Im still torn whether to keep it or not,Ill decide next week. Ill post up pics when the finish is done.BTW This is the most incredeble thread I have ever been a part of!

4est, i saw on the maple bow post , that you had glue on nock tips, on the belly side of the bow, wanna tell a little more!?!
thanks
wayne

going to get some pics up later of my new 51" ntn white oak pyramid. gonna go pick up some good sandpaper ($1 big lots stuff sucks!) , and try to find either a hickory board or something to back it with. i am not doing a riser piece , but i did cut out an ergo grip on it and a small shelf that i may end up removing in leu of a floppy rest.

still considering sinew backing it just for safety , but i think an eighth or sixteenth of hickry should do me up just right. im going to just end up tillering it as far as i can , and short draw it. if i can get my hickry sliced thin enough , i may do some small brushy's.


-hov

Glad you all are having a good time with this one      Nice to see new folks building some bows!  Fujimo: the nocks you are referring to are called brush nocks.  They prevent brush from snagging between the limb tips and string.  

Keep 'em coming, guys, and be sure to read all of the updates throughout.  They include an 8" riser (which is way better in my opinion) and a better handle design that's not so beefy and chunky.  The one I did for the build-along is designed to be WAY overbuild to prevent problems there, which is common in first pyramids.  However, it's heavier, bulkier, blockier, etc. than need be.

 

Hova,if you have a harbor freight close by,they have good norton sandpaper for way cheaper than the big box stores.Thats where I get mine  Look forward to seeing your new bow!

ill have to get up there tomorrow. i literally just went by there , but we were doing clothes shopping for the wifey. no tool talk allowed...


and yeah , i thought a buck a pack was good even if it sucked. it sucks royally. cheap tp has a higher grit rating...


need to pick up some moar clamps too...yay harbor freight..

-hov

Ricky,
just to ensure no more accidents you may consider placing the bow on the tiller tree or stick and putting a flat piece of wood same length as the riser on the hadle area then flexing the limbs to full draw. If the area under the riser shows daylight the grip is flexing and it may very well blow up right at the cut out shelf.D bows are supposed to flex through the handle and have no cuts to create weak points so there is a big difference.Good luck and keep asking questions.
Jeff

Would it be better to use a light wood for the overlays to keep the weight down towards the tips?