Go for it, Jack.  Maybe I can do a build-along on how I make arrows.  I make my hunting arrows from near-scratch with homemade tools and jigs.

Hey 4est,
I cant belive this build along has gone for so long.I can remember tuning in to this every day last november while building a couple myself.I'm so stoked to see such a solid recruitment to the art of bow building.

Good luck to all the up and comming bowyers and thanks 4est for all of your quick and helpfull replies!

I'm glad to see it, too, Matt.  You know, it's not a perfect design, and there are definitely some things I would do different.  BUT, at the end of the day it creates a bow that has a wide margin of safety, little hand shock, and respectable speed.  

Keep the building and questions up, folks!  

I would also like to recommend George and Sam's site.  I've built bows from both of them and had success and fun doing it:

http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/archer.html  (check out the "Building a Board Bow" page)

http://poorfolkbows.com/index.html

well i got one done I had a bout with stupid and had to cut the bow to an over all length 64 1/2".i also reduced the board thickness i deciced to make it for my daughter.tried it today she says it is to heavy for her,so i checked the poundage with a fish scale.it pulls 57# at 27" measured from front of bow.it has been drawn to 30" i don't know if i got lucky,or it is just that stout,but i shot it 30 times and it shoots excellent off the hand.it is now laying in the shope with the handle wrapped with blind cord,and the leather floppy rest glued on.i can'twait for every thing to dry up,so i can put it through it paces.do you think the bow is safe for me to shoot?i have,and so far so good i draw 28" when stretched out but can shoot scrunched up to shorten draw.

oh yea I will post some pics by the weekend

well I tried,but I can't deal with photobucket at this time will try later

Hey guys try this and let me know if it works
www.photobucket.com/albums/ac48/jackthepointer/

Walrii,  Put the bottom pully on an eye bolt and tie the rope to it along side of the pully then run up to the pully for the bow string and back down to the pully on the eye bolt at the bottom.  this will half the pull weight if you just want to stand back and look at it you do not need two pullies, it help it you make a lot of heavy bows

Hi folks

Thanks to this tread I'm approaching my first bow build. I have to use ash since I could't find red oak. What is the suggested limb width for a light 40# at 28'' draw length with ash wood?

Thanks

I've got water buffalo horn for nock overlay what glue should I use???

I've used Titebond III and good superglue gel, both with good results.  If using TB III, make sure the mating surfaces are smooth and that the joint doesn't have any voids.  TB doesnt' fill gaps.  I used the quick-set epoxy you find at the lumber stores, Wal-Mart, etc. once.  It worked fine, but it's mighty hard to keep everything clean.  I taped it all off, but that stuff can get everywhere in a hurry.

BTW, don't use thin superglue, though, or it won't take. Best of luck!

thanks I have the tb3 like you said to use on the handle so I'll stick to it hahaha stick to it.

This is the coolest post so far the the bows I've seen made from this post look great I hope mine will also.I've got one made from the tn classic its a hickory self bow that I'm very please with but I had a lot of help doing it Greg B and others so this will be one in which I'm doing all the work myself other than the help here. thanks

i'm in the process of doing this but just a bit different i took the same dimention red oak wood and split it into two bow blanks one is 1.25" wide the other is 2.25" wide then took the last 12" cut off glued it to a 12" piece of mahogany let it dry and made two risers turned the wood over so to get different color then glued to both bow blanks or planks then just layed out both i then cut limb thickness to 5/8ths and started designing and shaping looks like it will go well one will be a longbow  the other a pyramid design longbow i will post pics when finished both bow i'm useing as an experiment as to what i can do with wood i plan on trying to steam bend one set of limbs maybe a r/d from a press add some form of backing two different handle designs and such. LjT

that sounds great I would love to see pictures of them,while I was looking for my plank I did see some nice 2" wide planks and was thinking could I make a long bow useing these same steps.

I just had to bring this back to the top.  Almost finished with my first one and looking forward to using it this fall.  Thanks again 4est for all the effort put ito this thread!

-Jeremy

Would this design work with a shelf cut to center rather than a handle?

Yep, if that's your preference.  Just leave enough wood and round all edges.  Be sure to start the cut out for the shelf where you're certain the bow isn't bending, then add a 1/2" or more for safety.  I wouldn't make it a true center shot, though.  Stop short and match your arrows accordingly.

I read this in depth yesterday.  I'm hooked.  I bought my boards today to make a bow.  I plan on using it for bowfishing.  I will be about a 29" draw, and would like to make the bow a bit longer, maybe 68".  Would making the limbs 1/2" thick be too much or too little if I want a strong draw?

Also, thanks for the write up.  This is what has REALLY made me decide to try and make my own.  Also, I am left handed and plan on making an arrow rest.  I thought the rest would go on the left side of the handle, but I think I might be wrong.  Would the rest go on the right hand side?  If so, why?

I am a woodworking, but more of a woodturner, so I plan on adding some accents to this because I have some exotics on hand already.  Pictures will be posted when completed.

Jason,
My draw lenght hovers just over 30".  The last pyramid bow I made was 68" ntn (about 70" total length) the limbs were 1/2" thick and it came out around 55# at my draw.  It was ash though... red oak would behave differently.

For a left handed archer (holds the bow in the right hand) the shelf or arrow pass would go on the right side of the bow.  It has to do with all the forces that are in play when shooting, including the natural tendency to turn the bow slight away from the body (called cant) instead of keeping it completely vertical.  Do you shoot at all now?  If not, you might want to make your first bow a bit lighter in draw weight.