Since I'm brand new to this amazing thing called traditional archery, I'd like to know how you all experts like to practice ?
Right now I've been trying to shoot atleast 100 shots per day into a block or the couple 3d targets I have  (would love to accumulate more and set up a course on a couple of my 12 acres)

I've seen some folks talk about stump shooting and don't even know what that's all about,  but it sounds like a broken arrow waiting to happen (and I've only got 8 good arrows lol)

How do you guys go about practice, and how much do you practice to stay sharp?

what arrows are you shooting and do you have a judo point.  I stump shoot a lot and break only an artoe or two a year....two would be rare

QuoteOriginally posted by Terry Green:
what arrows are you shooting and do you have a judo point.  I stump shoot a lot and break only an artoe or two a year....two would be rare

Well shoot I didn't even know what a judo point was til now. I'm gonna have to order some!

I practice with two old friends 3-4 days a week at our club.  We rarely shoot from the marked stakes, but we have shot the course so many times from so many different angles that we have it pretty much wired with or without known distances.  We put plastic jugs, etc. in fields on stakes, hanging in trees or bushes, or just lying on the ground that we shoot at between targets.  I carry six regular arrows, a judo, and a rubber blunt.  I shoot the judo at targets where a regular arrow would probably get lost in the grass, and the rubber blunt at targets that might be hard on a regular arrow or a judo.

lately practice for me has been walking around shooting at wild flowers and dandelions, or really anything that catches my eye with blunt tipped arrows.

I use a lot of Judos but I also thing the vpa small game thumper makes a great roving head as well.

I walk around the place with a judo almost every day. I shoot at anything that catches my eye. One thing that has helped me is to only shoot one arrow at a time and walk and pick it up and shoot again. I have found that I concentrate better that way than shooting 6-8 at a time. I also only shoot one arrow at a time at my block target. The walk to pull the arrow and then walking to a new spot keeps me more focused. Think about it. How many shots do we get on game animals? Its a rare occurrence to have a critter just stand there for a second shot. It has happened to me only a couple of times.

I love stumping and roving as much as everybody else and go when I can. However when I'm wanting to really concentrate on building and reembedding form and release, I shoot a lot of arrows at the target butt.

This has brought a whole new way of thinking about practice for me.
Do th3 judo tips fly differently?

Mine fly differently, because the lowest weight screw-in Judo is 100 grain, and my target points are 75 grain.  Plus, I use 6 5" feathers on my Judos, so they are easier to find and don't end up in the next county.  But up to 30 yards there is very little difference in trajectory.  You learn where to aim a 50 yard judo shot, and it's worth it, because you are such a hero when you connect with a plastic jug at 50 yards (actually they hate you, but in a loving way).

No they fly like any other head. Only exception is they kick up instead of burying in the grass and leaves.

Mine fly the same as there is only 10 grain weight difference for me. I use 75 grain steel adapter and a 135 grain glue on Judo resulting in a 210 grain tip. My broadheads are 125 mounted on same adapter resulting in a 200 grain payload. My target tips are your basic 200 grain screw ins.

Dandelions these days are my favorite target, 3D course and when is too much rain outside I shoot in basement. I shoot at different distances and from different positions. I shoot quite often an imaginary bow and arrow too , but I never wrote it Ok?

You asked for expert opinions, but I'll go ahead and offer mine for good measure.  I used to practice in a very systematic way.  Goals would be set, practice time had an itinerary and it was a ton of work.  This is ok for some I guess, but I'm not that talented and all this work was not leading me to the success I'd hoped; X time multiplied by X arrows= X2 accuracy.  I figure if you have to force yourself to shoot it won't be all that difficult to quit. Fast forward a handful of years or so and my practice has become just sending some arrows downrange and having a good time. I have a good collection of targets, including a 2 bags and 3 little x-bow discharge bags, a rhinehart field ball and a rhinhart 18-1.  I shoot the field ball most, but I sure like the sound of a pine cone or the explosion of a white dandy lion when a judo point makes contact.  Oh, and don't get too attached to your arrows- if you aren't breaking them you aren't shooting too much- unless you are like Terry Green.  We should all be so lucky to shoot that well one day (see masterst of barebow I- tradgang ad).

If you shoot too good you will have the same problem with arrows - cracking the knocks due to robinhooding them. So don't get attached to arrows.

A fall from a tree stand led to not shooting much in the last 4 years. My accuracy and bow pulling strength have both suffered.
So I had a surgery this past winter that really helped the situation and now I'm playing catch up.
Here is a routine that I've followed for years.

In the beginning I began working on strength training. Using a half dozen arrows I shoot at a blank bale (large dirt pile). Much like weight training, I shoot with little concern for accuracy and focus on form until it's all I can do to reach anchor.
Once I can shoot 20-25 shots in a session with control I move up in bow weight. 5# is enough. Same process is followed with the new weight.

As I get back to the weight I want to shoot I alternate shooting from blank bale/form one day to target the next... same number of arrows. After a couple of weeks I add in a day where I shoot
"roving" with a Judo point. I'm blessed to have the room to shoot 80+ yards if I want. One arrow at a time and different distance each shot. From very close (like 10 ft.) to very long, then mid range and so on.

Sometimes I get out a bow that's heavier than I intend to shoot. Again this is for strength training... I have a lot of bows.

As season approaches I spend more time on the 3D deer. Mostly 20 yds. and less but also some longer shots like 40-50 yds... Think you'll never shoot a deer at 50 yards? What if an animal is shot poorly and tracked to 50 yds. What do you do if you've never practiced that? After an animal receives a wound any shot becomes ethical!! I don't care if the only shot you have is at it's ass!

I shoot at bare bails about 5 days a week for about 20 minutes each session. I stump shoot with a judo about once a week - and every day in camp - we are in a hunt camp fall-winter-spring so plenty of opportunity - and during fall season around the house stump shoot all hunt days (days off) 2 days a week

same practice routine since the 70s

we never shoot targets or 3D

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QuoteOriginally posted by Draven:
If you shoot too good you will have the same problem with arrows - cracking the knocks due to robinhooding them. So don't get attached to arrows.

I solved that problem many many moons ago don't shoot the same dot.... And you won't have that problem.... basic common-sense to saving arrows

QuoteOriginally posted by Terry Green:
 

QuoteOriginally posted by Draven:
If you shoot too good you will have the same problem with arrows - cracking the knocks due to robinhooding them. So don't get attached to arrows.

I solved that problem many many moons ago don't shoot the same dot.... And you won't have that problem.... basic common-sense to saving arrows [/b]

It was a joke Terry. That common sense is part of the learning curve. 1st robinhood might be luck, but after 3 in the row you get it. Or change the shooting distance, or you don't shoot the same spot as you said. But that's kind of counterproductive when you shoot paper sometimes. Or when you check if broadheads hit the same with fieldpoints.

I shoot one arrow at a time at varying distances.

This year I am going to shoot a lot more from a tree stand at a 3d deer target.  I put up a ladder stand with a safety line system just for practice.

About a year ago I started a whole new practice routine and use different targets (after shooting these things for nearly 50 years). I did this for several reasons, one of which is due to busting nocks and damaging arrows. I have always enjoyed stump shooting and generally do that when I claim to be deer hunting. I have run off deer shooting at leaves and other targets of opportunity.
I am at a place in life where I enjoy hunting for small game in a relaxed manner and exploring more than focusing on whitetail deer all the time.
Long story short(er). I built a large wooden frame and attached a piece of carpet and three layers of canvas, all serving as a backstop.
I use BLUNTS.
I watched John Schulz' videos on you tube many times, and practice that form and shot process, and I have really come to like it. You will need to repeat the shot process many, many times properly in order to really get it fluid where you don't have to think about it. Using blunts, the arrows just bounce off and fall to the ground.
For accuracy and tuning I hang the practice golf balls from the frame on strings and shoot at them.
I don't shoot groups anymore.I'm too cheap.
One advantage of this is that there is no fear of damaging an arrow, so shoot, and shoot a lot. I learned to use a back quiver (yes, you have to adjust it properly and learn to use it) and load it with a bunch of arrows now. I practice the whole shot process, which includes pulling the arrow from the quiver and nocking it. I also use a plains quiver and practice with it also.
I suggest that you get a good bow that fits you, but put your money into a BUNCH of arrows (but only after you have tuned them and know what to shoot). Then SHOOT. don't be afraid to shoot.
I think we hurt ourselves by putting too much into one shot. Be it due to arrow cost, self induced pressure for pinpoint accuracy, or whatever. Maybe just overthinking. In any case, I think that leads to target panic, choking, or whatever you want to call it.
Hitting the target is one thing, but I believe that if you practice your shot process enough so that it is automatic, you can focus better on what you want to hit, and you will enjoy it more and do better.
You can do this with recurve or longbow. Doesn't matter.
On bows, I have run the gamut from my first bow made in 1967 to the high dollar customs and back. The new, high dollar bows really don't have many, or any, advantages over the older ones. In fact, for hunting I am back using older, quieter bows. You can find some really good older bows cheaper and put your money into a lot of good straight arrows.
2 cents please.