Question for you guys that do this - how exactly do you do it?  Do you cut to the perfect length or cut it long to pack it in kinda tight?  I see the paracord compressing itself after shooting a bit.....thanks for the input
Tim B

I didn't wanna hyjack the other thread.....

I use mini aquarium rubbing cut half inch long so it scrunches tight for no rattle

Thanks!

And if that's not enough weight you can put weed eater line inside the aquarium tubing first.

Thanks again!
Do you glue your nocks in then also?

I shoved in the front of the arrow glue the insert in that's what helps scrunch it

Again I appreciate it!!

Using Terry's method above (both tube and weed eater line) I was able to add about 200 gr to an arrow.  Scrunched tight - no rattle - perfect.  
If ya wanna add weight - give it a try

why not just add weight to the point ? Something like that is bound to move inside the shaft. brass insertss, heavier points, or like a buddy uses on gold tips, .243 bullet glued right behind insert.

QuoteOriginally posted by randy grider:
why not just add weight to the point ? Something like that is bound to move inside the shaft. brass insertss, heavier points, or like a buddy uses on gold tips, .243 bullet glued right behind insert.

Just adding to the front weight will change the dynamic spine which will throw your tune out of whack. Adding weight tubes won't change your spine much but will reduce your FOC and your arrows will still be in tune.

No scrunched aquarium tubing cannot move

I did it and my foc lowered so much the arrow looked like it was in paradox all the way to the target. Look through the podcast videos on here, he's a sponsor, he has a great video on it, he also mentions you should start with high foc

http://tbwpodcast.com

I never had that kind of issue Old Goat but I'm not using 100 or 125 grain heads either ...haven't since the 80s

People still putting weigh inside the shafts. I guess Dr. AShby did all that experimenting for nothing.  It's "funny" how we forget about some information.

I never had that problem and I do use 125 grain heads.

I put the weighted line in because I got some carbon arrows that only weight 7.3 grains/inch. Adding the line at about 3 grains/inch brings the weight (and foc) up to about where it is on my other arrows.

I use the flexible drinking straws in my gold Tips. The little flexible parts kinda locks the straw in place.

QuoteOriginally posted by mgf:
I never had that problem and I do use 125 grain heads.

I put the weighted line in because I got some carbon arrows that only weight 7.3 grains/inch. Adding the line at about 3 grains/inch brings the weight (and foc) up to about where it is on my other arrows.

You must be using a different FOC Calculator and a different set of Laws of Physics than me if you are adding weight to your arrow and bringing up your FOC.

QuoteOriginally posted by Terry Green:
I never had that kind of issue Old Goat but I'm not using 100 or 125 grain heads either ...haven't since the 80s

Yeah, my FOC was on the low end and it was a 32" arrow, so that really didn't help, my calculated FOC went from low to almost balanced in the middle, can't remember the numbers now. One of the draw backs to a long draw is full length arrows are a lot harder to bring the FOC up on.

QuoteOriginally posted by calgarychef:
People still putting weigh inside the shafts. I guess Dr. AShby did all that experimenting for nothing.  It's "funny" how we forget about some information.

Yeah chef......some (you)  also forget there's more than one way to skin a cat.... and seem some people not only forget (you) but some people (you) don't even know where the study originated.... care to guess where the foc study originated Calgary????

And why is it that some seem to continually take potshots at others yet offer no real contribution???...You???