I made the switch from a Beman 340 Black Max to a Beman 400 similar to the Black Max wood grain carbon shaft (cant remember the name).  I have things flying well, but am wondering why I shoot to the right with the 400s.  All is grouping well as well as my broadheads flying and grouping with my fieldpoints.  I've pretty much made the mental adjustment, but am still wondering why?

maybe not the right spine, try different point weight and see what happens.

Weaker spine.

The weaker spine is making it go right like Vermonster said.You will have to shoot bareshafts to make sure of the correct spine.Shoot at 20 to 25 yards and you can see a weak shaft wind plane right or a stiff one wind plane left.That is assuming you aren't too stiff or weak.Too much either way will bounce off the riser and give you a false reading.

If your arrows were too stiff to begin with they were really going left but your brain adjusted to think it was straight.If your arrows are correct now you just need to give the brain time to adjust again.

I have to disagree with Mr Clark. There is no need for the brain to adjust anything. If your eye is over the arrow and you place the point of it under or on the intended spot to be hit. The arrow impacts either right or left of the intended target the spine is WRONG, and needs to be adjusted. In the case of carbon shafts thats done by changing the length or increasing or decreasing point weight. You did not mention weather you shoot RH or LH that will effect which way you need to correct things, I'm guessing you shoot LH.
Bob

Try some lighter points and see if it does not move back into line.  It definitely sounds like spine weak issues to me.

aromakr,

We are in agreement.Maby the way I said it was confusing.I agree that when I am lined up with my form and my arrow is correct my tip will be in line with the target.It will be higher or lower depending on distance.

What I ment to say is that when people shoot incorrect spined arrows they will adjust their sight picture to fit the arrow.So now they can shoot an incorrect arrow and still hit the target.It will take a little time to adjust the sight picture back to where it should be.

That is how it works for me and a lot of other archers I have talked to.However I have a friend who I know shoots the correct spine.His bareshafts fly straight from 25 yards.He says the point of his arrow is not in line with the target.I am sure it is either his eyes or form but he shoots very well regardless.

My post was for a right hand shooter.

My arrow flight is very good.  My broadhead arrows group well with my field points.  I've shot my broadheads out to 50 yards with no kicks or planing.  Actually I've made the adjustment and it's not a big deal, but I was wondering how my impact can be right, I'm right handed, and still have everything fly well.  My 340's were 2 1/4 inches longer and 25 grains heavier up front.

Arrows can fly great and still not be spined correctly, its usually only sever spine issues that will cause fishtailing and such. I think only some minor adjustmemts will be needed to correct the problem, try as Rod suggested some lighter points.
Bob

I'll give it a try tonight.  Thanks for the help!

What kind of broadheads Tree Ghost?? Narrower BH's won't show you the spine problems like wide ones will. Tune with wide ones then you can go narrower if you'd like of the same weight with no problems but not the other way around......O.L.

Are the shafts the same diameter?

If the 400's are the MFX and are the skinny carbons (like the Axis) that would cause a right point of impact compared to a larger diameter shaft for a right hander. The skinny shaft is closer to center shot. You may be able to build the strike plate out a little to move point of impact back to the left and then re-tune your arrows.

O.L. I'm shooting a 125 grain stinger.  Yes, they are the MFX and are slightly smaller.  I didn't try the lighter heads, and I had built up my strike plate, but all it did was cause a small kick in my flight.  Oddly enough, I replaced my rest last night (Neet Pro Rest) and didn't build up the side plate again and I tell you what, I'm getting great flight, some of the best that I have ever had, but to bare shaft the things is weird and isn't making sense.  When I decided to go to the 400s, I bare shafted the ICS shafts and all worked out great, but with the Clasics- they don't to cooroperate so I just cut them the same length as the ICS, fletched them up and things are going well, even witht he broadheads.  I'm kind of starting to wonder if I just wasn't a little out of wack with the 340s, but they bare shated and flew great.  I just wanted to create a set-up where I didn't have 2 1/4 inches hanging over the end of my bow.

Just a thought: do you have the arrows weighted somehow? Rough calculations put that arrow around 480 grains? Only asking because weighting methodology may play into it?

I love the MFX classics and get great flight, but mine are running lighter than I'd like to shoot and I've been unable to alter the weight (enough) without messing up the flight/spine.

And at $110+/dozen, I'm not too anxious to get into another dozen  

I have added a 100 grain brass insert.  this is just standard for me.  It takes the weitht of the arrow up to where I like them.  I used the insert on both shafts, and on the 340 as well.