Hey fellas,
Several guys have asked about which Grizzlystick shaft to shoot or have ordered a dozen of one size only to find out they needed something different (expensive mistake).  I visited with Ed at Alaska Bowhunting Supply and have gotten him to put together Grizzlystick test (tuning) kits for those interested.  This is a great way to get the right spined arrow or simply to try out these arrows without spending a bundle.  Ed tells me that the following kits will be available:
1 Sitka/ 1 Alaskan--$21.64
1 Alaskan/1 Safari--$26.64
1 of each $36.63

Hope this helps out.  Brady

Awesome!  After seeing the other thread on this The grizzlystyks have peeked my interest.  I'll be looking to pick some up in the near future.

thats a good deal there!

ttt

Thanks, Doc. Ed said something about that some time back, but I'd not had a chance to talk to him personally for a good while.  I'm glad you got him on the ball with that! It will surely help.

Now if we can just get guys to use that Bare Shaft Planning method on OL Adcock's website, printed out and right there, it makes such short work as long as the shooter is being consistent.

It's a bit harder to use with only one arrow, but hey...whatever works!    Very cool. Way to go Ed and way to go DocBrady.

OL's tuning method is certainly the best I have used for trad bows.  I agree that it is harder to do with one arrow, but I still typically get by with only one.  I had asked Ed to make a 4 arrow set (2 of each in the set), but then the cost was going to get up there again.  This is a good compromise and should give folks a chance to try them out.  You could always buy 2 sets if desired.  Brady

I've got 3 of each for "testing", fletched and non fletched in AK.  I found that with the application of some of the old style ferrule cement "hot melt" glue, rubbed on the insert, I could sand it to friction fit and stay put when pulling from a bag target filled with plastic.

That way, I could keep adding those Gold tip all-thread and weights w/o changing the shaft length, or if showing too weak, switch to alum. insert to lighten things.

Got me in the ballpark before I cut anyhting.

Shimming out the riser sideplate also helped diagnose when it was too weak...

So there's lots of ways to mess with the arrow w/o cutting it to change spine.

I just never was comfortable with the "nock orientation" when it stuck in the target to define spine...given that I've never found a totally homogenous target medium that assured me that the arrow wasn't being diverted when it struck becuase of the medium it was slamming into. Just my oneriness I guess.

Nock orientation works fine so long as your release is perfect every time....that's why I don't depend upon it    !

it seems there is a BIG problem with the nocks given with the shafts...I have 2 french friends shooters who get failure with them...for myself I ruined a 100# LB cause one of them...the nock had only 2 weeks; was perfectly epoxy glued; it has burst during a release and the bow has been highly damaged...while looking my arrows I found 2 other nocks which were in a poor state...since I don't use these shafts anymore...now I am looking towards some ACC 28, G nock adapters...

I think he sends those exploding nocks only to France       .
Just kidding.  I actually had the same thing happen.  I think that the problem is the 5/16" nocks are just slightly too big for the inserts.  They override the insert slightly.  This leads to the nock splitting with the impact of the released string.  It's a potentially big problem with several easy fixes.  First, I think a 1/4" nock would eliminate the problem.  Secondly, Ed is working on a press fit nock and actually has the prototype finished.  Third, some folks us ACC adapters with G nocks.  Here's my secret.......I use Easton X nocks with 2 full wraps of Scotch tape or 1 wrap of plumbing tape.  It works like a charm.  It also allows me to use lighted arrow nocks which are great for videoing.  Stay tuned.  Brady