hi guys....need some serious help please fellas. only 2 months till season opens here.  i've GOTTA get these damn grizzly stiks flyin right man LOL
They kick left immediately after launch...then slam straight whole rest of the way...and i mean just a ball of spinning feathers.  but  DANG  how can i get rid of that kick ?? paaaleeeeeze help me archers !! set up/equip. grizzly sitkas 30"  BOP/TON(arrow dynamics press in nocks..dressed to just barely grab) 5 1/2" shield feathers. 200gr. field point.  total arrow weight 580gr. 51lb griffin longbow 60" .  went from Bemen MFX's  to these cuz my Bemens were too short with broadheads on.....im' a dumbass. the bemens flew like darts. please help >>>-------->

Sean, Drop your point weight down to about 145-160 and see what you get. It sounds to me like you have a weak condition.

Sean,
Definitely sounds weak to me.  I have noticed that I need to shoot up a shaft size in the Grizzlysticks over what they recommend. You didn't mention what type of bow and at what weight you shoot.  My wife shoots Sitkas out of her 39 @ 26 recurve.  I shoot Alaskans in my 50-60# bows, but have to shoot Safaris for any of my center shot bows over 60#s.  
You can improve your situation by decreasing point weight as noted above.  Also padding out your shelf if able is an option.  Slightly decreasing your brace height should increase the "dynamic spine" of the arrow which might help as well.  Trading somebody for some Alaskans would probably be your best move   .  Brady

thanks  fellas and  i mean  THANKS !!   yeah at the bottom of my post after setup/equip.  51lb. Griffin longbow 60"    THANKS  AGAIN

If you are a righty, the arrow is behaving stiff...reducing weight may compound the issue (although it still may be worth trying point weights from 125 up to 250....weak/stiff spine issues arent always clearly cut).  

My guess is you were shooting the Beman 500's before.  You can try going from 125 to 250 up front on the Sitka's and see if that helps...also try cock feather in.

In the end...buy some Bemans...the $70 will be well worth it down the road.

i've heard you can affect the spine a little with grizzly stiks if you cut off from one end or the other since they're tapered. ex.  cut off small end= stiffer  cut off big end=looser  i still have about an inch of arrow i can play with...what if i cut off some of the small end will that stiffen it  up a touch?? so that i can stay with my heavy point wt. ??

If you are shooting straight at the target and your nocks are left you have a weak arrow.  If you have nocks right your arrow is stiff.  Provided you are a right handed shooter.  Be careful...if you are not in a perfectly straight line and doing a good release the nocks can become distorted a tad bit.

Cutting either end will stiffen the arrow...the smaller side more so than the larger.

Now I'm confused...

so.....that's  two  sayin it's  too weak....versus one saying it's too stiff.....keep  it coming boys !!  LOL

oops...yeah sorry...i know that cutting EITHER end will stiffen it....but  one more so than the other...i  apologize for not  being more concise.

Sean,
Take a look at OL Adcock's tuning information under his website.  This should help you with the confusion...or make it worse.  His bareshafting technique will help clear things up.  It basically boils down to this.  If your shafts are flying to the right of the target when compared to fletched shafts, they are too weak.  This typically happens because the arrows are flying TAIL LEFT.  The reason he doesn't recommend using the tail as the indicator is that there are many things that can be attributed to a less than perfect release.  This said, a consistent tail left arrow in a right handed shooter typically represents an arrow that is too weak.  Furthermore, in my own experience with Grizzlysticks (which I happen to like), the Sitkas are going to be too weak at 30" in a 50+ pound bow with 200 grain heads.  Best wishes, Brady

Brady is right on with getting to OL's site and going through that process...get some bare shafts and some feathered....put some distance btwn you and the target and have at it.

Brady is describing the planing process that happens to arrows flight based on tuning.  You mentioned kicking off the shelf...different.  

Get with OL's info and go slow through the process...you'll know pretty quick what needs to be done.

Again...OL uses his set of steps because weak/stiff spine can often mask as one or the other.

thanks  Doc !   yeah i've got a  printed out version of O.L.'s tuning page.  too weak an arrow...bends around riser TOO much and doesnt recover...hits Right.  Too stiff....doesnt bend around riser enough...hits Left.   but i can make too stiff a shaft or too weak a shaft FLY perfectly....just hit either right or left.  but  it's  this quick kicking and then it immediately straightens out and flies like a lazer thats making me nutz! lol   i'll try some lighter points then. and thank you so much. sometimes i  just need to hear somebody else  say  it too me LOL !!  have an awesome season DB !

I don't know weak from stiff, but I do know that  29.5 inch Sitks were shooting from my 45 lb long bow just like you said until I broke one off in a stump, just at the insert. Put in a new insert and the ,now 28 inch arrow is just a ball of feathers with a nock in the middle from bow to target. But there are easer ways to shorten an arrow.

TTT

thanks  Ifish  it's starting to make sense.  i  think maybe i'm too weak with the 200gr. up front and a 30" arrow...plus the 75gr. brass insert that i put in.

Problem with arrow tuning for me is you have to be a very good and consistent shooter to fine tune your tuning    .  When I am shooting good I use O.L.'s method.  When I am in a slup (now) I use the Morrison tail left/ tail right method.    

if the nocks are kicking to the right, it's stiff.
if they are kicking nock left, they are weak.

Yep.

Another vote for weak!