Wheres the best place to get a 2" depth of cut flush cut patternmakers router bit?
Have you checked Rocklerwood.com? They have almost anything,good quality to.
Here is the place the company I work for orders bits from. They are a little more expensive than buying them at the big box stores, but they have just about any bit you could possibly need.
http://www.hartlauer-bits.com/
you can get most any router bit here.
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v102-0552b
item# 102-1265B
I use a router table with the #7807 bit, so far so good.. http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html
An important safety tip: if you are making a new form and drive screws close to the edge where you will be routing, make sure you drive them straight. Just a little contact with a metal screw will absolutely trash a brand new $45 router bit. I won't make that expensive mistake again...
I bought mine at Woodcraft
I bought mine from Grizzly
Woodline is less costly and hold up pretty decent.
Has anyone found a top bearing bit for a 1/4 inch shank that is 1 3/4 or longer? Seems the 2" ones are all 1/2 " shank. Dont want to have to buy another router. but might have to. I've done the two pass, but I think the 1/4 inch shank is not stiff enough to keep everything square when it is extended way out.
The ones at the big box store are not flush cut, they are made for trimming laminate tops, so it cuts close but not flush. I think I am going to buy a 1/2" router and get the long bit and cut it in one pass.
I think I might have to do that too. Pulling the 1" bit so far out gives me the willies and I think it is a bit off square.
Quote from: beachbowhunter on March 25, 2020, 02:16:53 PM
I think I might have to do that too. Pulling the 1" bit so far out gives me the willies and I think it is a bit off square.
i just bought one recently but don't remember where I got it. But, one inch cut was the longest I could find for a 1/4" shaft. If you find something longer please post it. But, the 1/2 router is probably the solution. Hate to spend the money given that I hardly ever use the router for anything but forms.
I agree Monterey but you could always sell it later when you get old---older :)
Robert how does the router table work and are you doing one piece longbow forms or takedown forms? I haven't tried it yet I have the same setup.
BuddyB, I have made 2 one piece Recurve forms, a form for a 66" R/D longbow and a ILF limb form using the Router table. I had never touched a Router before making those forms.. I tried to use the 2" bit without the table and it did not go well,very hard to control. So I purchased the table and got it done. I was talking with Steve Jewett a couple of weeks ago and he has made a good number of forms.. It sounds like he routes his forms the same as KennyM, Kenny might have a video or pictures of his process.
Quote from: Mad Max on March 25, 2020, 05:39:12 PM
I agree Monterey but you could always sell it later when you get old---older :)
I ve been missing Roy since he went MIA but you are filling in nicely.
:biglaugh:
:thumbsup: :bigsmyl:
I tried the freehand router and it didn't work out well for me either. I'll try the table.
thanks.
Buddy,I'll try to tell you how I did it..Didnt get good sleep last night, I have not had to make a new form in 5 years, I am not a wood worker by trade so I have only used the router for bow forms.... First I Remove as much wood as I can before routing.. I use a 6 ft straight edge to mark a straight line onto form for bottom of template, then screw a template onto form, trace line onto form, remove template, cut about 3/16 from line, using my belt edge sander sand 1/8 inch from line then screw template back onto form and use router table to cut final wood surface. Checking the surface with a good square I mark any divots ( i usually get one) and fill them in with bondo, Then I use 3M High temp 90 spray contact glue to glue a piece of 040 black glass on top of the cut form, Guys like kennym that have great skill with their routers can skip the glass..
I bought a router table years ago thinking I would use it with profile jigs until it snacthed a piece of osage and slammed it into the wall and nummed my fingers for awhile :scared:
Now I use it for forms. My bit has the bearing next to the table. You still want to saw as close to the line as possible before routing.
I tried once doing it by hand and knocked a big chunk off the end of my recurve form so I quit and went back to my drill press drum sander. I have the flush bit and router table so I want to try and use it for my next form.
Quote from Stic"You still want to saw as close to the line as possible before routing."
That's the most important part.
well said Stic
I just cut out a form and sanded close to the line on my Rigid oscillating belt sander and I'll be dipped...it is smooth, flat where it needs to be and square. Now I dont want to use the router!