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HH BUG GOT ME - Part Two!

Started by Rob DiStefano, September 18, 2013, 09:27:00 PM

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0 Members and 14 Guests are viewing this topic.

NotDylan

What do you guys like for string material on your ASL's?  This is my first bow with a B-50 string and I really like it, it's so quiet.  But it wont stop stretching, I am having to add twists every session.  It's a flemish twist, would an endless loop stretch less?

Sam McMichael

I have two that came with D-97, and I am using that. I am satisfied with it. I used to use B-50 and liked it just fine and found it to be quieter than the newer stuff. When I got it tuned in, I would make a note of the best brace height. Adjusting for stretch was just one of those things to do from time to time. It was never a big deal, but I do admit that I like the lack of elasticity in the newer materials.
Sam

two4hooking

B50 for me. I pre-stretch them.  Many ways. Stretcher.  Hang a weight overnight. I heat my string by dipping it in hot melted beeswax. Then string the bow while hot.

pavan

#5023
Back in '80s

Overspined

For ASL I used 450+ for a while and really liked it, but I started with 452X and like it even more. Super thin strong strands. Rounder string, doesn't move after a tad of shoot in. My current build is like 18 strand and I can't remember serving diameter. I could accidentally cut almost 1/2 the string and it would still function. Doesn't seem to fuzz and it's nice and quiet.  B50 is fine. I really like the 450+ and 452x though. D97 is fine as well I've used it a little.

evgb127

I got to go to my happy place this morning:





It took some getting used to but man I am enjoying my forward handle Hill.  It almost feels like cheating.


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-EVG

pavan

#5026
14 two

NotDylan

So while on the phone with Mr JD Berry several weeks ago he mentioned that one would really see no benefit from a forward handle bow if they do not torque the grip.  How do you know if you are torquing the grip?  Is there a simple way to diagnose it?

evgb127

The telltale sign of torquing the grip is if your arrows are inconsistently hitting right or left of your target.  Generally, torquing occurs when you grip the bow too tightly causing some force to be exerted on the riser to the left or right rather than forward (if that makes sense). 


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-EVG

pavan

#5029
That does

pavan

#5030
When I

pavan

#5031
Shot one

NotDylan

I ordered 2 new strings for the Vixen to replace my stretching/slipping B-50 string, a flemish twist in X-99 with wool silencers from Mountain Muffler and another B-50 flemish twist from 10 ring strings.  I received the X-99 string yesterday and I am tickled with it.  The bow was pretty darn quiet using the B-50 string with no silencers but it is even more so with the X-99, I did not expect that.  Not to mention my brace height has moved maybe 1/8" over ~100 shots since setting it new.  I am definitely going to give the new B-50 string a try when it arrives but I am very happy with X-99.

Also picked up a Sunset Hill back quiver, what a lovely piece.  Nate does a great job with these, it fits great and arrows are easy in, easy out. 

All that is left is learning to build some woodies but that may be down the road a ways.  I really appreciate the extra durability of carbons and take advantage of it often.  I am currently using 500 spine 475gr Beman Centershots that I had made for my R/D longbow.  My draw length has shortened a bit since moving to a swing draw so they are a bit long but still fly pretty straight. 

This entire Hill style transition is the most fun I have had yet in Archery.

pavan

#5033
ND, wood

Ray Lyon

Pavan is spot on with above advice on vendors and length (not that he was looking for confirmation). It's exactly what I do as well. The only thing I'll add is if you're flush with money and want great wood arrows Paul Jalon at Elite Arrows (sponsor here on Tradgang) makes the best wood arrows in my opinion. His arrows are not overpriced but you can make them for a little less money. 
Tradgang Charter Member #35

NotDylan

Well that certainly makes it sound easy.  When you say tapers, are you referring to a tapered shaft or the taper where the point is glued on? 

I've always been under the impression that you were supposed to order you arrows long and then cut them to tune your spine.  Is that not really necessary? 

pavan

#5036
It is

pavan

#5037
 nocks anyway. 

pavan

#5038
i have

NotDylan

#5039
I decide to measure my DL with a Hill style draw so I can begin to spec out some wood arrows and I have the wife mark the shaft flush with the riser at full draw.  They ranged from 23.5"-24".  What?!  My wingspan divided by 2.5 says I should be at 28".  I then draw back standing upright, head tall, bow vertical, chest out, full expansion, ect.  The way I used to shoot.  Wife marks it just shy of 28".  I've heard you typically lose 1-2" with the Hill style, 4" seems a bit extreme.  Now, I do have a bent knee, bent bow arm, and am leaning into the shot like I'm wing shooting with a shotgun.  Perhaps I'm overdoing it.  I had her mark a few more drawing Hill style and they came out to 26" but I'm sure I was making myself draw further.  More things to figure out :knothead:

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