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woody spine question

Started by geno, July 25, 2007, 11:04:00 PM

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geno

I just bare shafted my 49@28 striker with 55-60 from 20 yrds. At 10 yrds from the target my shaft was sideways then hit left of target. I shoot LH.
would you skip the 60-65 and go higher or does 5 lbs of spine make a big difference.I would rather not have another 12 I cant use. Thanks
Geno
"Learning how to shoot a bow is easy if you learn the right way"..Howard Hill

SlowBowinMO

If you go with 65-70's, you can leave them an inch or so longer and essentially check very close to the 60-65 that way.  If they're still weak you can start trimming.

Just an idea anyway, there are so many variables it's awful hard to get more than ball park close on a message board, the proof is in the shooting.
"Down-Log Blind at Misty River"

30coupe

What length did you cut your arrows? You may be able to save them by cutting them shorter unless they are at the lower limit now.

If you skip, make sure you start with full length shafts so you can tune them. I am surprised the 55-60's are weak for you. I shoot 50-55's with both my 55# longbow and 48# and 45# recurves. I had to leave them 30" bop for the recurves (I draw 28").

I have a question, are you making sure you have the grain the right direction to the string? If you grain is paralell to the string your arrows will shoot weak (and could snap on release). Look at the end of the shaft and make sure your nock is perpendicular to the grain. Just a thought.

Russ
Kanati 58" 44# @ 28" Green glass on a green riser
Bear Kodiak Magnum 52" 45# @ 28"
Bodnik Slick Stick longbow 58" 40# @ 28"
Bodnik Kiowa 52" 45# @ 28"
Kanati 58" 46# @ 28" R.I.P (2007-2015)
Self-made Silk backed Hickory Board bow 67" 49# @ 28"
Bear Black Bear 60" 45# @28"
NRA Life Member

geno

Russ
These were arrows I had made. I did not pull the nock. I just replaced the feathers and bare shafted wile they were off. I do know about knock placement. They shot ok with the fletching on so I bought a dozen more (just shafts) That I am looking to trade.The guy I bought the bow from shot 60 65 But I do not know if he bare shafted?
The finished arrows were cut to lower limit.They shot touch high spine with my 45 @ 28 good match. That stinger is a powerfull bow  :D  Thanks G
"Learning how to shoot a bow is easy if you learn the right way"..Howard Hill

geno

They were stained dark I didnt realize I could see grain from the side..The nock is wrong. I will use a new shaft tomorrow. How much difference do you think you could loose in # putting the knock a 1/4 off?
G
"Learning how to shoot a bow is easy if you learn the right way"..Howard Hill

SlowBowinMO

When I've played with them on purpose to find out, I get 2-3 pounds variance on average, and up to 5 pounds is possible, just by nock placement.
"Down-Log Blind at Misty River"

30coupe

Geno,

Not only could you lose spine, you could get erratic flight as you describe, not to mention the possibility of an arrow coming apart with disasterous results. My cousin had that happen years ago with some cheap (painted) wooden arrows we bought. The arrow exploded on release and the back half stuck into the inside of his forearm. I'm not sure how far it actually went in because he yanked it out so fast...a couple inches at least. We quit shooting those! Since then I have been pretty particular about the grain in my arrows. It still makes me flinch after 30+ years.

Hope your shafts work out for you.

Russ
Kanati 58" 44# @ 28" Green glass on a green riser
Bear Kodiak Magnum 52" 45# @ 28"
Bodnik Slick Stick longbow 58" 40# @ 28"
Bodnik Kiowa 52" 45# @ 28"
Kanati 58" 46# @ 28" R.I.P (2007-2015)
Self-made Silk backed Hickory Board bow 67" 49# @ 28"
Bear Black Bear 60" 45# @28"
NRA Life Member

Shawn Leonard

If ya draw 28" and shoot a 29" arrow I would say go 15#s over bow weight at your draw. That would be 64#s, so ya may need 65-70s as said above and leave them 29.5"s or so, this assuming a 125 grain point. Shawn
Shawn

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