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bad tru-oil?

Started by the Ferret, June 15, 2007, 06:41:00 AM

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kirkwhitehead

mine was not lumpy or thick at all.
the bow is bamboo backed yew. I was told that the cocobola would be a pain but seeing how the yew is sticky too it makes me wonder.

kirk
kirk

Pat B

One remedy over oily wood would be a coating of shellac. That stuff sticks to everything and everything sticks to it.   Pat
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

the Ferret

Just got home. I stuck the knife outside this morning, hoping the sun and wind would dry it out. Been another 7 hours and it's almost dry. Stopped at Wally World and a gun store on my way home. Neither had the tru-oil in stock.

This is the first time in years I have had trouble with tru-oil. Normally it's 20 -30 minutes and it's dry, I'm steel wooling and putting on another coat. Don't know why this time was different. Outside temp is 84 degrees and 33% RH which for this area is bone dry.

Shovelbuck why are you sealing cane arrows? they have a naturally protective coating on them. I never seal cane arrows.
There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

ber643

Me2 (used to do stocks a lot), Ron, but I still didn't tumble to that trick - Duh! I do recall storing something else upside down though, but I can't remember what it was - it's an age thing - LOL
Bernie: "Hunters Are People Too"

Ret'd USMC '53-'72

Traditional Bow Shooters of West Virginia (Previously the Official Dinosaur Wrangler, Supporter, and Lifetime Honorary Member)
TGMM Family of the Bow

Shovelbuck

QuoteShovelbuck why are you sealing cane arrows? they have a naturally protective coating on them. I never seal cane arrows.
Now you tell me  ;)   I just thought it was the thing to do.
No matter what type of bow is shot, we're all archers.

the Ferret

Well some guys like Aeronaut (Dennis Han)do sand off the coating and then need to seal them, (don't know if you did that?) and sealing them definitly won't hurt them, but if you don't sand off the outer shell there's no reason to add more sealing to them.
There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

ozarkcherrybow1

Kirk, I used tru oil over my Yew Dryad blank and it dried quickly and looks awesome. It's not the wood....Terry

kirkwhitehead

do you know how I can get this stuff off?
how do you like your bow?
so far I am not all that pleased with mine.
kirk
kirk

Shovelbuck

Ferret, I do sand them, then seal.
No matter what type of bow is shot, we're all archers.

ozarkcherrybow1

Kirk, I have been making selfbows for about 9 years and have made 4 Dryad blanks. To date, my Yew/Tonkin Dryad bow(blank) is the absolute most beautiful-best shooter selfbow that I've laid my hands on. I did finish mine with Tru oil.
 What is it that you're not pleased with? Hope we can help you out, cause I am just overjoyed with mine....Just wish that I were a better archer!!!...Terry

the Ferret

There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

kirkwhitehead

I am waiting for some arrows to be finished before I make my final judgement, but thus far I wish I had just spent the money on an osage stave. the proportions in the handle is my biggest issue. not wanting to hog away a bunch of material to reduce the diameter, the position of the rest is in a thicker spot than I would like. I was told that 2" above center in the handle is the best location for the rest, by doing that I now need to reduce the diameter of the handle.
I normally do not follow the rules, but this time I did and I wish I didn't.
I have horizontal stress lines in both limbs and a piece of the bamboo backing was borken off(not on an edge but in the middle of the limb).
I know the first thought to come up is that I stressed the limbs too much too quick, but I have built a few osage selfbows from staves and can say with all confidence that I excersised the limbs at least 25 times before fixing the long string on the tree to check tiller with the walkie talkie.
at this point I do not hear any cracking or any noise in the limbs and I sinewed the bamboo spot.only time will tell.

kirk
kirk

the Ferret

Kirk, I suggest you just let it sit until Mike and Jason get home from Comptons and get their advice.
There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

Roy Stroh

I use a ton of true oil during the year so a 2yr old bottle would be one that is lost lol.  Anyway I always store the bottle upside down too.  Here in GA the humidity can be a pain with drying time so I just use a drying box with a little fan inside to speed up the process, I just keep it a bit warmer than the outside temp. Been doing that with gun stocks for a long time and it worked great on the few self bows that I have built.

W.Tim

QuoteOriginally posted by the Ferret:
W. Tim do you use that Howards on bows? Doesn't say anything about moisture protection. Do you really have to put it on once a month?
Ferret, i use Howards on my knives handles, bows and all of my tool handles ( small camp axes,hawks etc.) it's a great product and priced right too...and home depot has Howards feed and wax

Crimson mist

Hey Mikey here's a little trick I do with all my hand applied oil based finishes and although I won't use true oil as a bow finish it does have other uses  anyway add a little japan dryer to a small amount of oil in a container adjusting the amount to the humidity you have to play with the amounts but I tend to use a lot more than what the directions say  for me it cuts the drying time to half or even a quarter of the time in warm conditions

the Ferret

Pardon my ignorance but what is Japan dryer? Never heard of it.
There is always someone that knows more than you, and someone that knows less than you, so you can always learn and you can always teach

Roy Stroh

Its just a drying agent for oil based paints and varnishes.  Just a drop will do ya.  You can find it in any hardware that has stains and finishes.  

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3995&familyName=Japan+Dryer

Adam Keiper

LOL, All the Tru-Oil I buy must be old.  It never dries in 30 minutes for me.

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