bare shaft tuning and distance

[blacktailchaser]

is 5yrds ok for bareshaft tuning....i am shooting in my garage and was wondering if that is enough of a distance to get a read on the shaft....thanks

[Orion]

Pretty hard to tell much at 5 yards.  15-20 yards would be better. 

[BAK]

Were I checking on wood shafts, that's about where I'd start.   Broke a few years ago before I learned that.  You do need to eventually get back to about 20 yards to nail it down.  I've often gone back as far as 40.

[Wudstix]

At under 15 yards with my poundage and tapered shafts I break bare shafts.

[blacktailchaser]

thank you so much...i will back it up...

[McDave]

I'll have to differ on this one.  If you use Ken Beck's method of observing nock right/left/high/low, then you can get useful information at 5 yards.  I can find out everything I want at 10 yards.  I occasionally shoot bare shafts at 20-30 yards, but just for show or to satisfy my own curiosity.

I don't use O L Adcock's method, which is supposed to be a more accurate method of bare shaft testing, and relies on groups of bare shafts high/low/left/right of the aiming mark.  It is possible that there is not enough separation at 5 yards for this method to be very useful, I don't know.

[Sojurn]

I'm with McDave. Longer distance will give you more information on micro corrections,  but I rarely see a need to shoot past 5 or 10 yards. 

[GCook]

Well I agree with everyone.
Start at 5 if that is what you have to work with.  The nock orientation will tell you a lot and you can start your adjustment process.  But as it starts looking better you will benefit from backing it up. Not only in fine tuning your arrow set up but you will see shot to shot how imperfections in your form and release affect your arrow flight.  I go back to 25 yards.

[katman]

If unsure about the spine 5 yards is a good start. However watching the arrow may influence your form and mistakes here are magnified with bareshaft. Once close I prefer to back up slowly until I get to 25yds.

[toddster]

I can not remember where I learned this tip, but made a huge difference for me years ago, maybe someone on here at an event. 
First I start with what point weight I want, then get my bareshafts all set up.  Wood I pay attention to the Riff when making them of course.
Next, I take the fletching I am going to use, and weigh them on grain scale.
then, I take electrical tape, and cut off enough to weigh same as fletching.  I wrap the back of shaft where the fletching will be with it.
Now, I will stand at 7-10 yards and shoot the "bareshaft" into a firm target, at least 3 times.
then I will cut down, and repeat, until I get the shaft laser straight.
Then I will back up to 15 yards, and repeat it, keep in mind any adjustment needs only be like 1/16th.
then I will back up to 20 yards, for me this is where I stop for wood.  I know many will push out further, but am limited in range.
If using carbons, I will then "nock tune" them, as they have a seem, I shoot each shaft.
Then fletchem.

[Dave Lay]

I'm also with McDave on using Ken Beck vs OL's method. But I usually start around 10 yards them may go to 20 , I can't tell much at 5 and think the arrow is still close to paradox at that range

[Terry Lightle]

About 10 yards for me,Ken schooled me on this about 1985 or so