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Cracks in the fade

Started by Mike L., March 15, 2021, 10:54:58 PM

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Mike L.

You know how you're supposed to sand the fades so they're paper thin?  I was using some of that reinforced tape with the strings in it, doing my dry run, and the riser stuck to the tape and fell on the floor, cracking the paper thin part.  When that happens, is there anything that can be done? 
Mike L.

Mad Max

glue a 1/8" lam on the back  of the riser and reshape it again.

I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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Mike L.

Mike L.

mmattockx

Quote from: Mike L. on March 15, 2021, 10:54:58 PM
the riser stuck to the tape and fell on the floor, cracking the paper thin part. 

How is it cracked? Across the grain or along it?


Mark

Mike L.

Basically the ends chipped off.  There is one small crack that runs about an inch up the grain (along the grain) but it's an eighth of an inch from the edge. 
Mike L.

Mad Max

Quote from: Mike L. on March 16, 2021, 11:19:04 AM
Basically the ends chipped off.  There is one small crack that runs about an inch up the grain (along the grain) but it's an eighth of an inch from the edge.

If all of the fade is there, a crack is fine.
I leave my fades thick (1/16") until just before glue up
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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Mark R

I hate when that happens I do the same as Mad Max

Mike L.

I glued an 18" piece of a .070" walnut lam to it, then reshaped the fades and it seems to have worked out really great.  I had done 3 dry runs but was struggling with the ramps.  After I glued on that lam, I realized I had been putting dowels on the wrong side of the fire hose... duh.  I've been doing Kenny's FHLB for my last several builds and only tried the 64" DR once.  This time the ramps and fades looked good before glue.  I'm curing at 95 degrees for 12 hours because I don't want the lignum vitae to sweat out all the oil.  As always, thanks for the support!  [attachment=1]
Mike L.

Mad Max

If you have a riser blank 16" long and you need a 18" riser you can do the same thing.
I've done it several times :thumbsup:.

when I build my forms, the gap between the upper and lower form is about 1-1/4" but at the fade area I go down  to 3/4" :thumbsup:
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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Mad Max


This will be on the same form as the risers in the second picture.
Roughly shaped


I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

Mike L.

 That upper riser is 16", but you add a lam to the back to make it 18", that's whet you're saying?  Does that one have the lam on it yet?

That's a really cool looking riser shape.  You glue it up with the back glass one piece? Is that solely an aesthetic choice?
Mike L.

Mike L.

What kind of wood is that top one?
Mike L.

Mad Max

Quote from: Mike L. on March 19, 2021, 04:59:02 PM
That upper riser is 16", but you add a lam to the back to make it 18", that's what you're saying?

Yes for reply #8

Sorry, Totally different risers in the pictures
For reply#9  that riser Blank will be shaped to fit the same glue up form as the 2 risers in the 2nd picture, they are longer like 22".
Don't remember the wood on that Riser blank, I still have not built a bow with it
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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