finally started my newest selfbow

[Roy from Pa]

Looking nice Pat

[Flem]

Looking good Pat! How many hours do you think you have into this bow so far?

[Pat B]

Flem, I'm only putting an hour or two with each session and probably 1/4 of that time is in taking pics. It isn't uncommon for me to have at least 20 hours in a selfbow using a clean stave so with this stave, with it's knots and concave back I was expecting it would take me at least a bit longer. I had to re-correct the twist in one limb this morning. I'll get back on it later today.

[Pat B]

Got the bow to brace height today. You can see the tiller is off with the right side off the most. Both limbs are bending at mid limb and need more bend out each limb and back into the fades.


...and at 22", going for 26".


The limb with the twisted tip also had a lateral bend so I got out the oil, the heat gun and a few clamps.


...more to come...

[Roy from Pa]

It's getting better Pat.

Looks sweet.

[Mad Max]

 

[Pat B]

Thanks guys. I'll get a bit more done today but we have a major ice storm heading our way tonight and tomorrow so I have to be sure we are ready for that. We rarely get major ice here, less than 30 miles down the road. In the 30 years we've lived here we've only had 1 major ice storm. A few lesser ones, only the kind that are just pretty but I think tonight might be bad. 

[Mad Max]

I've been looking for this pat and found it today.
Works really good for those concave rings, you can hear the early growth rings when you get down to them, then come back with the scraper.
It's not flat on the bottom.



I cant find it on the internet because I don't know what to call it.
Looks like a beaver tail.
Works like a chisel 

[wood carver 2]

It looks like a ground down spoon gouge. Do you hold it vertically and scrape with it?
Dave.

[Roy from Pa]

[attachment=1]

[Mad Max]

It looks like a ground down spoon gouge. Do you hold it vertically and scrape with it?
Dave.

Just like using a flat chisel to shave, Parallel to the stave.

That could work Roy

[wood carver 2]

I have used flat chisels to scrape in the past. Never thought of using a gouge on hollow or curved wood.
Dave.

[Mad Max]

I was trying to chase a concave ring on Osage at the Tn. Classic and someone let me barrow that tool and it worked really good.

[Pat B]

Thanks Mark. That would work well for a concave back.

I decided to shape the handle. I start with the lines marking out the center and outside of the 4" handle area. On the center line I draw a circle 1 1/4" in diameter and 2" out on either side of the center I draw a 7/8" circle. I then connect these circles with lines and out to the end of the fade at 1 1/2" wide. This outlines the handle.


with a #49 Nicholson and farriers rasp I start shaping.








as I'm working on and around the handle area I keep adding these reference lines to keep me on track


more shaping all around the handle.




While shaping the handle and fades I decided to shorten the fades from 4" to 3" to get a little more working limb.
Here is the bow as it stands now. This bow was built symmetrical but this pic doesn't show that.


I made a new string for the bow and braced her for her first sweat. Sweating, like exercising helps to set the tiller. I kept her braced for an hour and when unbraced she still held 1" of reflex. I still haven't determined top or bottom limb. As I shoot the bow in she will tell me what's up!    
More to come...

[Mad Max]

Nice Pat

[Roy from Pa]

She's coming right along Pat

[glenbo]

This thread is so helpful. I just started my first Osage bow in about ten years. Thanks for the refresher course Pat.

[Pat B]

I'm dealing with lower back problems now so I won't be bracing or drawing a bow for a while but I thought I'd share another helpful tip.The back of a bow handle is usually flat with square but with slightly rounded edges. This is uncomfortable to me so I like to add a rounded overlay to help fill it out in my hand.  I used to own a leather shop so I have these shoe sole precuts. They are about 1/4" thick. You can also do this with cork or even cardboard.


I cut out a strip on the bandsaw about 4" long and a little over 1" wide.


Then to the belt sander to make it a long oval




then round the edges and over the back


I make sure it fits. Doesn't have to be perfect now. More fine tuning later.


now it time to glue it down with TBIII. I size the the flat side of the overlay and the back of the handle


put the pieces together and hold them tight with strips of rubber bands until the glue dries. Usually a day or two. I also use rubber bands to hold tip overlays for glueing.


to be continued...

[Roy from Pa]

Good idea there Pat.

[Mad Max]

Use what you have