2021 what did you do today?

Started by Roy from Pa, January 01, 2021, 05:54:06 AM

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Shredd


Mad Max

I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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Flem

What are you guys talking about?

"I asked to see what this looked like after finished and you to me to be patient, well I'm still waiting."

Is this some kind of code? As it stands, it's indecipherable

Roy from Pa

Mark I never finished it cause the bow came in too light for the swap so I started another one.

Be patient, someday I might finish it:)

But right now I's gotta go feed dah chickens:)

:laughing: :laughing: :wavey:

Mad Max

The angles on the fades is what I wanted to see
Chicken boy :bigsmyl:
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

Roy from Pa


kennym

Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Roy from Pa

 :laughing: :thumbsup:

[attachment=1,msg2976626]


Crooked Stic

Okay here is a side view. I glued the front part on then two separate pieces on the pads. Actually too many glueups  :dunno:
High on Archery.

cocie

Hi!! 
    I was sanding a little bit today and I stopped with 120 grit... still a lot to go...  and could not wait to try to fire some arrows ... hope you like it :)

:wavey:

Crooked Stic

High on Archery.

Buemaker


Mad Max

You want the high point on the shelf to be in line with the deep part of the grip.
Nice work :thumbsup:


I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

Crooked Stic

High on Archery.

Roy from Pa

What Mad Max is saying is, the arrow shelf should be rounded upward, " be higher " at the same point as the deepest part of the grip.

You can still shape it like that or add a piece of leather there which you would anyway.

[attachment=1,msg2977182]

Bow looks real nice and good shooting.


cocie

I though to sand little bit more shelf towards back of bow... leather sound easier...  Thanks for tips guys!!

Roy from Pa

[attachment=1,msg2977185]

Good link for setup and tuning...

https://www.fenderarchery.com/blogs/archery-info/basic-tuning

mmattockx

This is really the last few days, but close enough. Now that we are half moved out to the new place in the country and I'm sleeping out there it is easier to spend a couple hours in the shop every evening.

Got the second Perry reflex lam bow experiment onto the tillering tree and bending to 20". I had to rough out the handle area to get it to fit on my tree and I took inspiration from a thread by JGR1269 from a few years ago. He drills his riser to form the radius where the shelf meets the upright side of the riser window and to form the crotch of the grip at the pivot point. That looked way better to me than free handing those, so I figured I would try it.

His thread: https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=153887.msg2662219#msg2662219

The riser work is shown in posts #57 & 58.


The grip after being drilled. I left material in the center of the pivot point area so the bow would sit flat on my tree.





The grip roughed out close to it's finished width. The new bandsaw cut over 2.5" of red oak dead straight and square to the table. I'm very happy with that performance using a well worn blade.




On the tree at a bit over 20" draw (due to the grip area still being oversized a bit). It's showing 35lb at this point, so it is going to end up closer to 50lb @ 28" than I was expecting. Target weight was 45#, so a bit of sanding may be in order at the end.




Mark

Mad Max

I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
}}}}===============>>

Roy from Pa


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