2021 what did you do today?

Started by Roy from Pa, January 01, 2021, 05:54:06 AM

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Buemaker


flyonline

Got some work done on my osage spliced billet bow - after a new tiller tree was built to cope with the new "shed" (or lack thereof) after our move  :dunno:

Takes a small amount of reflex after some bending at the moment, from almost board flat to a 1/2" or so. Still has a bit of snake and prop twist to keep me on my toes and test my limited skills  :laughing:

Roy from Pa

Looks good.

Is it taking reflex or deflex?

Pat B

Looking good so far.
If I may suggest, instead of pegs on your tiller tree use a rope and pulley. It is less strain on a bow being tillered and it's easier to exercise the limbs as you watch the bow bending. Once you get the limbs tillered out a bit you can use the pegs, pulling the bow less than before to use a tillering Gizmo to find the stiff and weak spots. Straining a bow that hasn't been taught to bend and recover yet can cause excess set. 
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow


Flem

You guys missed the "lack of shed" part of the post. It looks like his tree is freestanding

Roy from Pa

We didn't miss it.

What's that have to do with the bow tiller?

flyonline

Quote from: Roy from Pa on February 03, 2021, 06:09:20 AM
Looks good.

Is it taking reflex or deflex?

Ooops, lack of sleep  :banghead: Taking deflex of course.

Thanks for the comments on using the pegs, I only use it to take a quick photo as I normally use a rope 'n' pulley when tillering in real time. It's still some way under target weight (@ 40# aiming for 50ish).

Thanks for that Shredd, I was thinking that a catch of some kind would be better than me trying to hang onto the rope with one hand and use a gizmo with the other  :thumbsup:

Roy from Pa

I tiller with a pull rope but I also have holes drilled in the wall board of the tiller tree at every inch down the tree and I use a smooth shank bolt to hold the bow string down while using the gizmo.

How long is the string you have on the bow in that picture?

I start out tillering with a string that just barely slides into the string grooves and lays snug against the belly of the bow.

Longer strings lie and don't give you a true indication of the tiller.

Once the tips are bending down about 6 inches, I brace the bow to 4 inches and keep tillering.

When the tips are bending down 9 inches, I brace the bow to 6.5 inches and finish the tillering process.

So far your bow is looking nice.

[attachment=1,msg2950601]

Roy from Pa

Quote from Bvas
Flem, gonna be used for accent stripes in a TD riser.


I did the same thing one time Bvas, I bet thickness sanding end grain on that osage was a pain in the bu__.
Mine was Hard Rock Maple. :knothead: mine wanted to burn when sanding
WE ripped it the wrong way :nono:

[attachment=1,msg2950616]

Flem

Quote from: Roy from Pa on February 03, 2021, 10:55:07 AM
We didn't miss it.

What's that have to do with the bow tiller?

My mistake. I have always assumed a tillering tree is a freestanding version and a tillering board is mounted.

Roy from Pa


Buemaker

Gluing up a RD bow. 8 layers so it will be a Smooth-On massacre. Fingers crossed.

[attachment=1,msg2950658]

hunting badger

Finishing up a McKenzie T/D longbow for my nephew, 62"LH 53#@28", Tigerwood with a purple heart I beam. Limbs Action Boo with brown glass. Only the second Kenny T/D for me, turning out well, now I need to build another one for myself!

Shredd

Hope she turns out well Badger...

   Smooth On Massacre...   :laughing:

No problem Fly...  Here are some pics...  Have the cam cleat about 16" above your pulley which is just 2 to 3" above the ground..  The cleat should sit back about a half to one inch from the rope...  When you want to engage the cleat  -  as you are pulling with one hand push the rope in towards the cleat with the other... The rope will slide in place...  Let off some slack and the cleat will engage... To disengage just pull on the end of the rope and the rope will pop out of the cleat on it's own...  Be careful to put the end of the rope safely out of the way when it is engaged and make sure the rope is not accidently kicked or pulled on when engaged...

  Works great and is very safe when used properly...  Guys talk about it slipping...  That's because they never used one...  It has not slipped once... And they are mainly used for sailing...  If they were to slip, on a boat that could be very dangerous... Possibly meaning someone getting slammed with a boom or thrown overboard...


flyonline

Quote from: Roy from Pa on February 04, 2021, 04:18:42 AM
I tiller with a pull rope but I also have holes drilled in the wall board of the tiller tree at every inch down the tree and I use a smooth shank bolt to hold the bow string down while using the gizmo.

How long is the string you have on the bow in that picture?

I start out tillering with a string that just barely slides into the string grooves and lays snug against the belly of the bow.

Longer strings lie and don't give you a true indication of the tiller.

Once the tips are bending down about 6 inches, I brace the bow to 4 inches and keep tillering.

When the tips are bending down 9 inches, I brace the bow to 6.5 inches and finish the tillering process.

So far your bow is looking nice.



Thanks Roy!

so far the string is at a very short brace height (1-2") and I'll twist it up as I go. I found out the long string lying thing a few bows ago - lost a nice little boo backed cypress before I worked out what I was doing wrong  :banghead: Now I go as short as possible without over straining the bow (or me!).

Shredd

thanks for the pics! I've got one on order now and I should be able to add it with only minor alterations to current setup  :thumbsup:

Steve

Roy from Pa


Buemaker

[attachment=1,msg2950786]

Smooth-On massacre is over, got all the lams together and cooking. Will see tomorrow what it looks like.

Shredd


Shredd

  Bue...  Something don't seem right...  You been hitting the shrooms again??

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