Finally getting off my arse...

[George Tsoukalas]

Pat, very nice and good to see. Jawge

[Pat B]

Thanks guys. George, it's good to get back in the saw dust. After the last few months I understand your love for sweat pants but it kept me out of my shop. Good to get back to it.   

[ztontonz]

Coming along very nicely !

[Mad Max]

Looking good pat

[bigbob2]

Loving your work!.

[Pat B]

Thanks guys.  These are sister billets that have natural reflex at the handle area so I added a bit or reflex near the tips to compensate. She ought to be a sweet shooter.   

[Pat B]

I got her to low brace and spent the last few days aligning the tips with the heat gun and a bit of oil. Today I narrowed the limb tips and added overlays. I decided to use thick shoe leather for the overlays that I will saturate with super glue. I went with the leather because of some irregularities and a short kick in one limb tip. I soaked the leather until it was flexible then remover the excess moisture and glued them to the tips with TBIII and wrapped with rubber bands. I'll let them dry for a few days because it's pretty humid lately.
  Here's a few pics...

[Mad Max]

Is that leather hard to shape after glueup  Pat?
lookin good

[Pat B]

Mark, once I add the super glue it works just like wood. Sometimes I have to keep adding super glue as I reduce the shape. Once shaped I will coat it with super glue for a good hard finish. I also have a leather arrow rest I did the same that I'll be adding at the arrow pass.

[Pat B]

The leather overlays have basically dried. You can see the depressions from the rubber bands. Wet leather is easily molded. That's why I use it for uneven surfaces. I'm going to give the leather and glue another few days to be sure they are completely dry before I add the super glue.

[Flem]

I like the leather idea You could add some cool tooling marks before saturation.
Curious why you added overlays? And excuse my ignorance, but what's a "kick"?

[Pat B]

The little upturn at the tip of one limb is the "kick". I didn't want to try to remove it because it is so short. Yew is a very soft wood and without the overlays the string would dent and possibly cause damage to the tips. In most cases tip overlays are not necessary for wood bows, not even for FF strings, and are generally mostly cosmetic. With yew, ERC and other softer woods I believe it is a necessity.

[Mad Max]

Good Idea, I like it

[Pat B]

I've only done this with oak tanned(Veg tanned) leather both this thick shoe leather and thinner oak tanned laminated to build up enough for overlays. I've also made handle risers for bendy handle bows with layers of this thick shoe leather.

[Pat B]

I've got her new string made and got her to full brace. I'll let her sweat for a few hours today...


tip overlays shaped and almost finished. Will finish after the snake skins are added...




got the arrow rest made and installed on the handle/sleeve. A leather wrap will go over the sleeve and rest...




I put a couple of dozen arrows through her today and she shoots well even though my arrows weren't quite right for this bow. I will let her sweat for a few hours to help everything settle in and help stretch the string.
To be continued...

[Mad Max]

I like how you take your time and always come out with a very nice bow.
Can't wait to see it finished with the skins.

[Pat B]

Yeah, Mark she occasionally gets me off my arse. 

[bucknut]

She's coming right along pat.  Hopefully my next build will be a TD. It was good to watch it come together.

[Pat B]

Thanks, John. After shooting her yesterday I realized the string is off center a little so I'll spend a few days correcting that. Then put more arrows through her before I add the finishing touches.
I'm making this bow for a friend. I've never done a sleeve take down so it was a total learning experience. I'm pleased with how it came out so far. 

[Mad Max]

How long is that bow Pat ????