New Bow confusion

[JAH518]

update if anyone was still wondering the outcome.

I have ordered 3 different strings from 3 different makers but to this point only 1 has arrived. I have also made some small modifications to the bow bolt system, my finger tabs, arrow shelf, and arrows. The over all outcome is good and most of the problem are gone or almost resolved. 

1st. I found that there is (was) a void in the bow bolt system between the top of the bolt and bolt socket. I used silicon based mud to figure out the exact size of the void and then filled it with a cotton based foam. Filling this void reduced the high pitched harmonics a great deal.

2nd. The new string was made from the Mercury material (same as the original) but this one is an 18 strand vs 14 strand. I then installed (3) 2.5" pieces of paracord outer shell as silencers. HUGE DIFFERENCE!!!!!! over the 14 strand and cat whiskers.

3rd. I replaced the leather strike plate and shelf mat with protective felt used for furniture on hard wood floors. Another HUGE DIFFERENCE!!!!

4th. I started playing with arrow weight, brand, and arrow balance. First I tried the bowyer recommended arrow and arrow set up (Centershot 600's 50gr inset and 150 tip) I got 2 out of 5 attempts to actually stick in the target, the other 3 flew so weak nock left they wouldn't stay in the target. A buddy gave me a Axis traditional arrow test kit with some Ethics inserts with sleeves. The 400's at 30" with the 110gr Ethics insert/sleeve and 150gr point bare shafted like lasers out to 20yds.

At some point while I was playing with the bow bolt, string, shelf, and arrows the arm striking stopped and the face striking was now just a light brush. So I tried one more thing and changed the thickness of leather on my finger tab from 2 cordovan leather pads to just one. (this tab is a home made version of a Yost)  Now this thing is dead quiet, smooth, accurate, comfortable and kind to shoot. 

In 38 years of my archery journey I have never worked so hard on a single bow to get it to shoot well "for me". I guess I have always been lucky and just been able to tune some arrows and go enjoy a new bow. I still don't think some of the things I've had to do should have to be done to a new high dollar custom bow from a very well know bowyer. However, now I think this just adds to the partnership this little piece of wood and I will have for years to come. It is truly a one off custom bow now.

Thank you to all that gave me suggestions resulting in the ideas that helped me figure this thing out. The Tradgang family truly is a great one.   

[Sam McMichael]

I guess your dogged persistence paid off. You certainly stayed with it longer than I would have. I would have had it on the way back to the bowyer early on. I'm glad it all worked out well. Congratulations on your success.

[Car54]

I probably missed it ,  what is your draw length & poundage?
Congrats in figuring it out.

[JAH518]

I probably missed it ,  what is your draw length & poundage?
Congrats in figuring it out.

I'm at 46 pounds on my fingers @ 28"

[Petrichor]

Congrats you earned it.

[valleysniper]

I had a black widow PSA it was very loud also. Fortunately,  I've had 4 or 5 other widows with no problem. Ended up my arrows were WAY to stiff and arrow was striking riser by rest. Your arm gaurd problem I've had also, for me it was that the grip on the riser was too small for my hand and let me get my arm into it alittle. Not alot, but just enough to strike my forearm.

[beachbowhunter]

Hold the bow up in your hand and look at how the grip forces your hand into position. Then take one of your other bows that doesn't cause the nose and arm guard slap and compare. My guess is that the grip design forces a different hand/grip angle on your hand which brings your forearm inward, and the string closer to your nose.

[frassettor]

I have found thru personal experience that string silencer placement can make the string slap your arm. I always put my silencers the length of my T-square away from both ends. While replacing a string once (and after being told by my bowyer that this system was supposed to be quieter) I decided to try the 1/4,1/3 placement for the silencers. I started slapping the heck out of my arm. After a couple weeks, I couldn't stand it anymore, and ripped the silencers out and put new ones in at the old spot. Yep, no more arm slapping!!!! So, moving the string silencers is something you might try to alleviate the arm slapping problem.

Is that T square length from the string loop or up from the nocking point ?

Bisch

[D31]

I have a bow that has the bow bolt take down system that would rotate slightly when shooting. Not a lot but enough to notice the step on the heel of my hand. I could not get a  .0015" of an inch feeler in the gap. It wasn't making any noise that I noticed but the rotation in the grip was extremely distracting to me when shooting. I separated the bow and put two heavy coats of car wax on both halves and let it dry completely. The wax residue was enough to fill the gap and lock the bow together. No more mismatch and no more distractions when shooting and completely reversible if it doesn't work for you. Good Day

[Wudstix]

I have found that brace height and string silencer location can be a great help.  Brace might be lower than you think.  String silencer position off by 1/8-1/4" can be a big deal.  I have found Paracord sheaths to be a very good material.  I use four 2" pieces on the 1/4 of string length from from grooves for 66-71# D/R bows.

[joe vt]

Wow that was a lot of work to get that 2pc to work for you. I am curious what the bowyer said when you contacted them. It sounds like a defect was in the bolt system. That is not acceptable on a brand new bow.



I tip my hat to you for your perseverance.

[Cyclic-Rivers]

Glad you figured it out. I know how frustrating it can be to learn a new bow. 

The first thing I always check when I start hitting my arm is brace height.  It can change depending on string material.  Usually takes care of some noise issues as well.