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Broadhead sharpening by hand

Started by Charlie Lamb, August 19, 2019, 07:35:21 PM

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Charlie Lamb

I was reading another post and the topic swung over to sharpening two blade heads. Since there are always new guys on board and hunting seasons are fast approaching I thought I'd start one on the subject. Lots of stuff in the how to section, but what the hell.

Here's  couple of videos.

  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM3pLrDfDKU
  https://youtu.be/2zbgR4ybg1s



Feel free to add your tips and tricks. We all seem to approach the task from a different direction we all know there is more than one way to undress the feline.
Hunt Sharp

Charlie

acedoc

I learnt by keeping the file static and moving the broadhead mounted on a piece of broken shafting.

The much vaunted KME is appreciated for a reason. It takes a bit of time to lay down the angle but plain works.

Thanks for taking the time to repost.
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Tony Van Dort

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Bisch

I can't do it by hand!!! I just can't hold consistent angles from one side to the other. The closest thing to "by hand" that works for me is a KME, but it is still painstakingly slow.

A while back, I bought an electric sharpener for my kitchen knives. It worked so well, I thought "I wonder if this will work for broadheads?". It is now my go-to sharpening method! The sharpener is a Chef's Choice Edge Select. It will only work on 2-blade heads that the blade can be removed from the ferrule. For me, that's ok, because I only shoot 2-blades that have removable blades.

This sharpener has been a game changer for me, and I actually enjoy sharpening broadheads for the first time in my life!!!!! It is an excellent choice for anyone who is "sharpening challenged" like me!



Bisch






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dnovo

I've been sharpening broadheads with just a file for many years. That's how I started out and to me it is the easiest simplest  way.
I like being able to resharpen a head in the woods. It's easy once you learn how to hold it and file a consistent angle.
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bigbadjon

I sharpen mine on a flat bench stone the same way I sharpen my knives. I think the biggest mistake is using too much pressure. The weight of the blade is all that's needed and it is hard to mess up that way.
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pavan

When i file broad heads at home, especially new ones, I use a broad head/arrow holder.  Nothing more than a cut off from an ash canoe seat.  They make them with extra length and they always need to be cut to length.  Anyways, I grind a slot to harness the arrow and taper the end so the blade edges remain supported but clear of the wood for the file.  i think 3rivers sold a plastic hand held arrow support.  They help to get a consistent firm file stroke, which can be difficult with narrow heads.  Way back when for three years in a row, I gouged my index finger on my shooting hand, right where the string bit me, sharpening Hill heads prior to the season opener.  Two times it was the corner of the head digging a hole in me, another time a nasty cut when it turned in my hand.  I switch hands when filing, the left hand index finger has been cut as well, but i really remember the right index finger cuts back when I only shot right handed.  One year,1976, I shot a deer with the middle and ring finger under, with the stitched index finger still heavily bandaged sticking out straight, it was a very close shot.   

Friend

#10
A Rada Wheelie and a glass rod has me ready for action in less than 5"s per broadhead...the same results with convex heads...
>>----> Friend <----<<

My Lands... Are Where My Dead Lie Buried.......Crazy Horse

GCook

Quote from: pavan on August 20, 2019, 03:06:07 PM
When i file broad heads at home, especially new ones, I use a broad head/arrow holder.  Nothing more than a cut off from an ash canoe seat.  They make them with extra length and they always need to be cut to length.  Anyways, I grind a slot to harness the arrow and taper the end so the blade edges remain supported but clear of the wood for the file.  i think 3rivers sold a plastic hand held arrow support.  They help to get a consistent firm file stroke, which can be difficult with narrow heads.  Way back when for three years in a row, I gouged my index finger on my shooting hand, right where the string bit me, sharpening Hill heads prior to the season opener.  Two times it was the corner of the head digging a hole in me, another time a nasty cut when it turned in my hand.  I switch hands when filing, the left hand index finger has been cut as well, but i really remember the right index finger cuts back when I only shot right handed.  One year,1976, I shot a deer with the middle and ring finger under, with the stitched index finger still heavily bandaged sticking out straight, it was a very close shot.
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Jon Stewart

I just grab a file and touch them up before I go out. Been doing it that way for many years. Killed a few deer with them.

pavan

#13
Back in the 70s it seemed that no one that I hunted with could get their heads sharp, so i ended up sharpening everybody's broad heads.  Half of my problem was hand fatigue from gripping arrows for dozens in a row, that is why I came up with the arrow holder.  in the 60s lots of guys around here used the free hi-precisions, locally manufactured.  They would take a few idle swipes at those gum soft laminates with either an old rusty file or one of those little pocket stones and go shoot deer.  Then one smart ass told them that all they were sharpening was the center weld and not the real metal.  I enjoyed that one, who knows maybe the welding was harder than the metal.  They invented the first three blade single bevels trying to get around that.   Then it seemed almost over night that hi-precision was out of business and everyone was using Bears and Deadheads and sharpening them with those little plastic carbide Bear Archery broadhead scratchers.  A file still was the key to get heads to a point that the Bear broadhead scratchers could do a job, but the blood trails were noticeably better. My canoe seat wood broad head holder, that i hacked out 30 years ago.

Tedd

#14
This might make your life easier -
I am able to sharpen broad heads well, with a lot of different methods. I have pretty much every sharpening device on the market including the KME and I can use them. But by far the easiest thing I have ever used also happens to be the fastest and gives the best edge is my $38 belt sander from Harbor Freight. I'm not taking credit for the idea, I saw it on Jason Samkoviak's  trad podcast.
  The series of belts and strop belt for it was probably another $25. I really only use the 800, 1000 and the leather strop belt. I use Flitz polish on the strop belt. I sharpened this whole box of newly mounted broad heads in about an hour while drinking coffee, chatting with my wife and petting the dog in between arrows.
The only way I'll use something else is if the power is off! Or I'm on a trip. Then I have files, stones...etc. It does a perfect job on single bevels. And Treesharks types also.
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Charlie Lamb

Well, this hasn't gone exactly like I imagined, but I'm pretty happy with it. Like I said new guys should have lots of options to choose from for getting their broadheads killing sharp.

Like Pavan and some others I started when it was just called bowhunting. The word traditional was still in the future. Jones style caps were the rage. If you tried to wear a felt hat you'd be accused of some sicko hero worship.  Plaid shirts in wool or flannel were the camo of the day unless you happened to score some WW11 Marine camo at the Army Surplus store.

Arrows were usually wood but might also be aluminum (very soft alloy shafts that bent if you looked at them crossways) or fiberglass which were rugged but too expensive for a lot of us. They were most likely tipped with Bear Razorheads lovingly stroked to a wicked meat cutting with a file.

I ruined several broadheads learning the bowman's art of file sharpening one. Stones were for knives and I was a little to heavy handed to learn that delicate technique. I was still years away from learning the value of a brand new sharp file and the different grades of cutting power.

There just weren't any real options in those days and I learned to put an aggressive serrated edge on my precious Razorheads. Gradually I'd refine my touch and could get an edge that would cut hair with just the file. A valuable skill that I still employ from time to time.

These days I have more time on my hands and my preferred sharpening tool is KME set. Awesome edges on straight and convex shaped blades. I'm going to run a Simmons Tree shark through a deer this year and will be employing another little tool that really turns the trick on concave edge broadheads. A few strokes on the RADA tool and a finish on a ceramic stick and I've got a big nasty razorsharp Shark.

My buddy Terry Green likes the accusharp tool and has done quite well with that on his Zwickey Deltas. I guess what I'm saying is that it really doesn't matter how you chose to make the edges of your broadheads wicked sharp. Just find a system that works for you and never take a dull broadhead to the hunt.


Hunt Sharp

Charlie

GCook

Wisdom.

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Bisch

Quote from: Charlie Lamb on August 21, 2019, 09:31:15 PMI guess what I'm saying is that it really doesn't matter how you chose to make the edges of your broadheads wicked sharp. Just find a system that works for you and never take a dull broadhead to the hunt.

I think this one sentence about says it all!!!!

Bisch

smokin joe

I am a file guy too, but I also admire the ease of using an accusharp tool for 2-blade heads.

My preferred system is a 10-inch mill bastard file to get things started. I then go to a 6-inch chainsaw raker file. The raker file is a very fine cutting flat file, and the edges of the file have no teeth -- I use the edges like a butcher's steel to finish my broad heads. Shaving sharp in no time.

A word to the wise: Put a handle on that little 6-inch raker file if you use one. Don't ask me how I know to do that.
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J. Cook

I enjoy the accomplishment I feel when I get one super sharp using a file and diamond stick.  I use a variety of heads and can get them all shaving sharp with a file except my 4-blade Zwickey Delta's.  That danged little bleeder blade wreaks havoc on my angle!!!!  I use a Rada and crock stick on those. 

Great video Charlie - there's something very gratifying to me about the strokes of a file.
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