Show your bolt and pin orientation on your take-down riser

Started by Shredd, August 04, 2019, 02:40:52 PM

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Shredd

What is your bolt and pin orientation??  My pins are offset but I am thinking of putting everything in a straight line to simplify things although having it all in a straight line could possibly weaken the butt of the limb a little... Has anyone had issues putting pins and bolt in a straight line??   Is there a standard way that a lot of bowyers or companies use to interchange limbs??

  I am making three risers with varying pad angles to use for experimenting with limb designs...

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Wolftrail

I never had problems with pins been in a straight line.  All manufactured bows are done that way.   I use a 7dg.  pad angle.  My reasoning is it puts less stress on the limbs because I'm building wood bows with minimum reflex,   anymore extreme angles would mean more reflex in the tips,  that places more stress.  The issue I have is aligning the bolt hole and pin hole because I don't have a drill press.  This time I'll make a proper jig in the hopes of aligning everything up.

I see no reason for having offset pins, other than maybe having more stability between the riser and limbs.   BobLee bows have 2 pins.

Shredd

Do you or does anyone know the dimensions of the pin and bolt placement that is the standard among the manufacturers??

Crooked Stic

I really dont think it matters on spacing. one of mine is about 1 1/8 from the riser end and the other is on the side of the bolt hole maybe 1/2. my bolt hole in the limb i 3/8s so no binding there. you want the pin to be easy on and off. Just on the edge of sloppy in my opinion  (nothing binding) They do move a little on the pins so lube them. In line with each other should not matter.
High on Archery.

Crooked Stic

High on Archery.

Shredd

Rough blanks...   5, 7 and 9 degrees...

  Stick here is a trick I learned...  Take the butt end of the drill bit you used to drill the holes or the pin that you are gonna use and put it in the drill and burnish the hole...  Wiggle it around and put it into reverse and you will open things up about a thousandth...  The pins will go in easy with no lube...  Plus you burnish the wood which makes it a little harder...

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Mad Max

I drilled and reamed 1000's of holes in my time, in steel.
After my limbs were drilled and doweled I would take the limbs off and run a .2505 reamer threw them.
Just the right size. Like this    https://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Carbide-Tipped-Chucking-56552505/dp/B00CGVVXUM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=.2505+chucking+reamer&qid=1564960254&s=industrial&sr=1-1
Line them up in a straight line Shredd
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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Flem

I've been staring at that picture for about 10mins, waiting for a Eureka! moment.
I got nothing. What the heck is that Roy?

Roy from Pa

Limb socket for my ILF bow.

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Flem


Crooked Stic

Ha I am surprised ya dont have boo backed limbs on that rig Roy. :bigsmyl:
Yeah I used a lot of different size reamers doing bell housings on diesel rebuilds. And you really need to have a solid setup with a reamer bushing to get it right. I usaly put the bit in some vise grips and turn it in the drilled hole until I get the right fit.
High on Archery.

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