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Broadhead to wood adhesive

Started by Ari_Bonn, April 13, 2018, 04:12:51 PM

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David McLendon

How cold? I been to some pretty chilly spots to hunt, like MT & AK. Have you ever had a head come off due to being brittle because of being cold? I haven't and I have never met anyone who has, but if I did my question would be what were you shooting to make it come loose? Surely not a live animal... I hear this come up from time to time but nobody has ever had this happen, it's always I heard a guy say that he knew a guy who's brother in-law did. I have been using Ferr-L-Tite for my whole shooting life without issue, I'll be 61 in about 3 weeks and started shooting at 5, some time after giving up Ironweed arrows and hickory limb bows I started gluing on field tips at 8-10.
Lefties are the only ones who hold the bow in the right hand.

Bisch

Well, I can say this about Big Jim's vs Ferrul-tite:  when I used FT, I would occasionally have field points come off in targets. Not all the time, but often enough to be annoying!

Since I have been using Big Jim's, I have never had a single point come off a wood arrow, or lost a single insert from a carbon arrow in a target!

That is enough proof to me that Big Jim's is better.

I can't speak for broad heads on wood shafts, as I don't hunt with wood arrows much at all!

Bisch


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Captain*Kirk

Quote from: David McLendon on April 18, 2018, 12:30:59 AM
How cold? I been to some pretty chilly spots to hunt, like MT & AK. Have you ever had a head come off due to being brittle because of being cold? I haven't and I have never met anyone who has, but if I did my question would be what were you shooting to make it come loose? Surely not a live animal... I hear this come up from time to time but nobody has ever had this happen, it's always I heard a guy say that he knew a guy who's brother in-law did. I have been using Ferr-L-Tite for my whole shooting life without issue, I'll be 61 in about 3 weeks and started shooting at 5, some time after giving up Ironweed arrows and hickory limb bows I started gluing on field tips at 8-10.

David;
Zero to 20F. Below freezing. I had several Zwickey Eskimos come off in a McKenzie 3D deer and I've lost a couple field points the same way. Also lost a few field points while stumping during summer temperatures, with the points staying embedded in the wood.
FWIW, the number of arrows I've shot and not had any issues far outweighs the ones that have come loose.
Aim small,miss small

yeager

Like a few others stated.....I've been using Ferr-L-tite since the late 1960's and have never had a problem, even in my high school/college years in the cold, north Minnesota woods.
Wisconsin Traditional Archers
Wisconsin Bowhunter Assoc lifetime member
P&Y Club, Official Measurer

pavan

I use Stanley amber from Bomgaars.  It needs a little more heat, but I have never had a broadhead pull off when target shooting with them.   I do not directly put the head or the glue on the arrow on the taper directly in the flame.  I heat up both, I try to apply even and no more than I need. 

Jbseitz

From carbons to wood can't beat Big Jim's hot melt...tough as nails!
Never go back the way you came

Deno

I only use Bohning Insert Iron for   broadhead and points on wood shafts.  Haven't tried Big Jim's.

Deno
United Bowhunters of New Jersey
Traditional Archers of New Jersey
Traditional Archery Society
Howard Hill Wesley Special 70#
Howard Hill Big 5  65#

Zradix

I've used industrial hotmelt glue sticks for years....not the "craft" stuff.
The industrial strength always seems to have a yellow look to the glue.

You mentioned the glue hardening up before you get the point on.
The method below should alleviate that problem completely.

I use a little alcohol burner.
I soften the glue stick in the flame..just soft and starting to get runny...but not dripping.
"smear" a little glue on the shaft.
Then I hold the point in the heat for about a 6-7 count with 190 grain tips...lighter tips = less time.
Basically I only heat the back end of the tip...keeps the front from getting too hot to handle.
Then I take the shaft with the glue on it and rotate that in the flame to soften the glue again...just till it starts to bubble...takes about 2 seconds.
Then I push on the tip, rotate it a bit/index it if a broadhead.
Then use my thumb to clean up the excess glue that squished out while it's still soft.

Never really had a problem. I've had a tip or two pull out when using hard targets...but nothing to really complain about.

The other nice thing about hot glue is that it's easy to reheat and change points.

If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear

Bisch

Quote from: Jbseitz on April 18, 2018, 10:53:25 PM
From carbons to wood can't beat Big Jim's hot melt...tough as nails!

This ^^^^^^^^

Bisch


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Deno

Quote from: Deno on June 07, 2018, 02:41:32 AM
I only use Bohning Insert Iron for   broadhead and points on wood shafts.  Haven't tried Big Jim's.

Deno
I'll have to try Big Jim's after such great comments.  Insert Iron is pretty pricey and a bit messy ta boot
United Bowhunters of New Jersey
Traditional Archers of New Jersey
Traditional Archery Society
Howard Hill Wesley Special 70#
Howard Hill Big 5  65#

drewsbow

I use BigJim's and it is not the same as anyone else sells period , Jim researched this glue and found it to be the best and now markets it as his own hot melt. Simply the best there is. Drew
Try to be the person your dog thinks you are :0)
TGMM Family of the Bow
N.Y. Bowhunters member
BigJim 3 pc buffalo 48@28
BigJim thunderchild 55@31
BigJim thunderchild 55@32 Jim's bow

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