Hickory backed lemonwood ALB build along the start.

[Pat B]

Benton, I think the guy I got if from had dyed the hickory backing strip green then splattered it with brown. Probably leather dye. but Rit dye mixed in alcohol would do the same.

[ron w]

Cool stuff Pat........can't wait for more.  

[Pat B]

Thanks Ron. I've done a little the last few days but it's pretty cold in my shop so I only work a little at a time.
I've narrowed the bow to 1 3/8" and may have to narrow more as it's still pretty strong.
I marked out the width and reduced it with a farriers rasp because the 36 grit belt on my sander is old, dull and as I put pressure on it the belt stops. I think this old belt has stretched. I'll get a new belt as soon as I can. I still have to thin the backing some too.

[mwosborn]

It is taking shape and looking great.  I agree, those glue lines look good.  Looking forward to seeing it bend.

[Pat B]

Well, I got a little more done today. After removing wood from the belly the backing seemed to be too thick so I sanded it down a bit. I just got a new 40 grit belly and was worried I take too much off. I gingerly pulled the bow over the sander, one limb at a time, about 6 or 8 times to reduce it. Here it is before sanding...


...and after...


One thing it did do is remove the dyed design on the backing. That's not a problem. I'll come up with something else later.
Next I drew where to cut the string nocks. Usually I will come down 3/4" from the tip on the back and 1" on the belly. This usually comes out at about a 45deg angle. Because the ends were uneven I came down 1" on the back and 1 1/4" on the belly...


...then I cut in the nocks with a chain saw file...

These are temporary nocks just for early tillering. Once I see how the string tracks at low brace I will reduce the tip width, add overlays and cut in the permanent nocks. I like to keep the tips wide to start with in case I need to make adjustments for string alignment.
Now her first trip to the tiller tree. I exercised her some then looked to see if things were OK and so far, so good...


...to be continued...

[BMorv]

Looks to be still pretty thick, but that will leave you room to play with.  Looking good.

I'm wondering why people normally go with 1" from the end on their string nocks?  Seems to me that it's just unnecessary to go that long.  It will add length and mass to your tips and doesn't have a function.  Or am I missing something? I normally go .5" from the end

[Pat B]

I start long with the string nocks then while shaping the tips remove a lot of the bulk. One reason I like them long is for the use of a 2 cup type stringer.
Everything beyond the string grooves is dead weight so from the string groove out I reduce the tips as much as I feel comfortable with and to make them aesthetic as I can.
I don't have pics of my nocks now but will once I get there with this bow.
Another way to reduce dead weight is to round all edges of the limbs. You can make a reasonable radius along these edges without changing tiller or reducing weight.

[LeeNY]

   

[Pat B]

I did a little more scraping today but not enough to post pics of. Even though I did about 80 scrapes on both limbs and 5 runs on the backing with the new 40 grit belt sander you can hardly notice the difference except she's bending a bit better. I've decided to reduce the T/T length to 68"(now 71") which will be better for my 26" draw. I made a string today and am pre-stretching it on the bow now. I'll get back on it again soon. I'm ready for low brace to see how she looks but won't rush getting there.

[Roy from Pa]

Looks nice, Pat.

[BMorv]

I'm looking forward to seeing her bend too.  Your last sentence gives insight as to why you are so good at this Pat!  Meticulous patience.

[Pat B]

I'll hopefully get back to her today. It would be nice to get her to low brace.

[Pat B]

I got a little more done today. I cut the overall length from 71"t/t to a more appropriate 68"t/t and cut in new string nocks.
Here is a pic I should have posted the other day showing the reflex...


...with the handle clamped in the vise here is the bend of one limb...


...I did a bit more scraping, getting the limbs bending evenly and more together and things were looking good. Then, the fraging gremlins sneaked in and bit me in the arse...As I was exercising her after taking off wood I heard the dreaded "tick" and before I could let down and examine her this happened...
 

It looks like the hickory broke on the side or back and lifted this splinter. Once I get over the shock I'll see what my options are. I may be able to narrow the bow to remove the splinter but I don't think I can trust the backing now. Maybe grind the backing off and find a new backing. Time will tell...

[Roy from Pa]

Ouch sorry, Pat.

[Pat B]

Stuff happens, Roy. I'll give her a few days to rest and consider the options. I could narrow the bow to remove the splinter but I don't think I can trust the backing. With it glued with Weldwood Plastic Resin I guess I'll have to grind the backing off...boy will that suck!    :eek:

[BMorv]

Yeah that does suck.  I wonder why it did that.  It looks like very straight grain.    
 Maybe you can make the grinding into a tutorial.  I've always wondered if I could do it, but never attempted it.

[Pat B]

I'm curious why it broke. Generally speaking sound hickory doesn't break across grain. Being this is only about 1/4" wide break and a splinter it seems odd to me but I'll do a post mortum later to see if I can figure it out.
I will take pics if I decide to grind the back off. I just got a new 40 grit belt last week so that will make somewhat of a difference.

[Roy from Pa]

Actually Pat, I was surprised to see how square you left the edges?

I've ground backings off and it's a real pain...

[Pat B]

Roy, the edges had been rounded. Maybe not 1/4" but enough...usually. That is something I learned a long time ago and I do it as needed, even on the belly as I remove wood.
A guy on PA suggested using a rasp and work facets along the edges. He said he rasps it to the glue line then redresses the surface. I guess I'll find out which works best.

[BMorv]

I have a belly that I need to grind off of a tri-lam.  I was thinking that a router might work for the bulk material, then sanding to finish it off.