Can`t get the riser block to fit....(finished pics pg. 5)

kennym · June 24, 2017, 07:30:00 PM

Yep, let it cool completely before you work on it.

Crittergetter · June 24, 2017, 07:34:00 PM

Kenny, don't say "yet"! That implies that there may be a problem later!

Crittergetter · June 24, 2017, 07:40:00 PM

I've done 12 bows without heat and no problems with any of them. I've done different test on them and identical bows that where done with heat and haven't found any difference at all.
I will say that I am going to build a bowfishing bow and donate it to a bow fishing tournament this next spring and I will be doing heat in steps like smoothon recommends for a higher heat distortion temp because it gets HOT here in Texas and I don't wanna take any unnecessary risk. Lol

kennym · June 24, 2017, 08:43:00 PM

Randy you need to make a tiller stick like they used to use , make em full draw, and test a couple bows in a hot truck til they blow up. One cold rolled and one heated. :D

Crittergetter · June 24, 2017, 09:02:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by kennym:
Randy you need to make a tiller stick like they used to use , make em full draw, and test a couple bows in a hot truck til they blow up. One cold rolled and one heated. :D

No need, I know which one would win. Lol
My thoughts on this is that the HDT on smoothon cured with out heat is 165 f ( I believe) . I don't ever forsee shooting in temps anywhere close to that. But I also try not to leave my bows strung in a hot car or truck anything like that.
Higher HDT and a faster cure are the bonus of heat curing. Im just hard headed I guess!

kennym · June 24, 2017, 09:42:00 PM

They will blow up when they have been cooked too, don't ask how I know!!

Black bedliner parked in shade, sun moves on ya..... :eek:

arachnid · June 25, 2017, 12:25:00 AM

Mine is no Taj Mahal for sure... More like a warm box then a heat box...

arachnid · June 25, 2017, 02:46:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by arachnid:
Oh, one more thing- Assuming everything goes as planned, I`ll need to glue a piece on the belly so I can shape it to my handle. I`ll be using a 12" long piece. Do I have to use smooth-on or can I go with 10 min epoxy (which I use for the tip overlays)?

???

Robertfishes · June 25, 2017, 10:30:00 AM

I would use smooth on for tip and handle overlays.

Crooked Stic · June 25, 2017, 12:24:00 PM

Robert is right Smooth on has been proven if used right.

arachnid · June 25, 2017, 12:44:00 PM

Fresh out of the form

And a few hours of grinding, shaping and sanding

What do you guys think?

kennym · June 25, 2017, 12:56:00 PM

Looks good so far from here!! Good job!

Bodork · June 25, 2017, 01:45:00 PM

Uh Kenny, actually the Sun stays put. It's the Earth that moves. haha!

arachnid · June 25, 2017, 01:56:00 PM

One thing I learned is that I need a decent lam grinder. My belt sander jig doesn`t give me accurate results. I have some difference in thickness between the limbs and I had to play with the width a bit to get it to bend evenly.

Now I`ll go on to shape the grip, tips and all the other stuff.

Bvas · June 25, 2017, 04:22:00 PM

Man.... you went right to work. Looking good.

kennym · June 25, 2017, 04:49:00 PM

Hey Mike, the shade was what moved. :D I didn't do it but did build the bow and loan it out.....

June 25, 2017, 05:13:00 PM

Here you go Buddy... Just posted this on another forum for a friend... If you got any questions just hit me up... I like this contraption because it has a very fine setting due to the angle of the fence to the pivot point and because the main load is on 1/2" pivot pin and not on a small movable adjustment screw there is a lot less chances of fence moving around on you...

I just checked the adjustment screw with a dial indicator... With an inline screw one turn gives you .060"... With fence on an angle as I have it, One turn gives you .010", which is 6 times finer, which in turn should give you better accuracy... If you make your fence angle smaller you can get even finer adjustments...

When using, I clamp the bottom half down and I also put 20- 30lbs. of weights on the pivoting section to keep it from lifting or moving around....

arachnid · June 25, 2017, 05:35:00 PM

That`s a nice jig you got there Shredd.. I guess it runs against it drum (or wheel) of your belt sander? Mine is not a cilinder but more like a barrel shape so I can`t use it.

That being said, I worked on it more tonight (one of those time I tell my wife "honey, I need to finish something in the shop. I`ll be back in 30 minutes or so.." and then I`m back 4 hours later :D ).

The bow seem to be bending into a nice shape

Only thing left to do is finish sanding and apply a finish to it.

Well, how does she look so far?

kennym · June 25, 2017, 05:39:00 PM

Looks good!

Lets see those tip wedges, you kept some good reflex in that!

arachnid · June 25, 2017, 05:40:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by arachnid:
That`s a nice jig you got there Shredd.. I guess it runs against it drum (or wheel) of your belt sander? Mine is not a cilinder but more like a barrel shape so I can`t use it.

That being said, I worked on it more tonight (one of those time I tell my wife "honey, I need to finish something in the shop. I`ll be back in 30 minutes or so.." and then I`m back 4 hours later :D ).

The bow seem to be bending into a nice shape

Only thing left to do is finish sanding and apply a finish to it. Came out a bit heavier then I wanted but nothing I can`t handle. I hope to lose a few pounds while sanding.

Well, how does she look so far?