60" KennyM D/R Build Along- My first glass lam bow

kennym · February 07, 2017, 08:50:00 AM

Unless it's real hot or you are real slow, you have time to mix a little more if you run out.....

arachnid · February 07, 2017, 11:48:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by kennym:
Unless it's real hot or you are real slow, you have time to mix a little more if you run out.....

Thing is I don't want to mix too much and have it go to waste.

kennym · February 07, 2017, 11:54:00 AM

That's what I mean, mix light and mix more if need be. Just have clean stuff handy to mix in if needed.

Coat each glue surface but don't get any glue on you.

arachnid · February 07, 2017, 01:33:00 PM

Thanks Kenny.
Any suggestions on what to use to spread the glue? Just a flat piece of wood whould do, I guess, but I`d like to know for sure.
And, should I spread a thin/thick layer of glue on each lam?

kennym · February 08, 2017, 07:45:00 PM

I use a scrap of lam about 8" long and 3/4" wide or scrap glass will work too.

The glue only has to fill the sanding marks on the lams and glass, I put slightly more on than that tho.

arachnid · March 02, 2017, 07:47:00 AM

Well it`s been a while but I finally got a belt sander. That should make things much easier.

So, while I feather the fades on the riser block I`d like to ask about "stable core".
I got 2 strips of it in my last shipment and I`d like to know if I should use one on this bow. What will it do and how much will it effect the draw weight?

Here`s a link to the product:
https://shop.bearpaw-products.com/WebshopB2C/Bearpaw_Power_Stabil_Core_Stripes/P-3429/1?Origin=Navigator

Thanks
Dor

Mad Max · March 02, 2017, 07:59:00 AM

you don't need it on a kennym bow, it's more for recurves and static recurves.

arachnid · March 02, 2017, 05:52:00 PM

I was very eager to continue working on my bow so I spent some time in the shop tonight. Sanded and feathered the riser, did a few dry runs and then, before I got cold feet, I went on and glued it up. Man, that smooth-on is messy stuff.
Anyway, glue-up went fine (I think). I got what seems to be a good fit with no gaps. Used the rope and wedges method and it seem to work pretty good. Got a good squeez-out of glue. I won`t have time to touch it until saterday night so it has a long time to cure at room temperature.
Hope I won`t be diappointed.

That`s my setup...

Tips with the tip wedge

Riser Fades

Bvas · March 02, 2017, 10:05:00 PM

I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya.

arachnid · March 03, 2017, 06:39:00 AM

I did a visual check today and saw a gap on the upper right fade (right where the handle starts). It`s not a working area so I hope it won`t cause a problem (besides cosmetics...)

Pago · March 03, 2017, 05:31:00 PM

Arachnid, you are a very creative fellow. On your next bow, find some mountain bike inner tubes and cut them into strips on the vertical lines and use those instead of the rope. If you can also get a strip of phenolic 1/2 as wide as your form and put it on last before the rubber bands.

arachnid · March 05, 2017, 04:11:00 AM

Well, unfortunately the bow broke when I tried to brace it.
Things learnd:
-Use smooth-on for the riser.
-Don't compromise on less then perfect glue lines.
- Don't rush things.

It's off to the next try.

arachnid · March 05, 2017, 04:14:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by Pago:
Arachnid, you are a very creative fellow. On your next bow, find some mountain bike inner tubes and cut them into strips on the vertical lines and use those instead of the rope. If you can also get a strip of phenolic 1/2 as wide as your form and put it on last before the rubber bands.

The rope and wedges worked very well. The only spots I got bad glue joints are at the fades, where I didn't gring it currently. That's where to bow failed.

Bvas · March 05, 2017, 08:21:00 AM

Sorry to hear it.
Can you post some pics of the riser and the break. Nobody likes having a failure, but they are great teaching tools for yourself and others.

kennym · March 05, 2017, 08:34:00 AM

Man I hate to hear that! Study it well(looks like you already have) and figure what went wrong.

Pics would be good, like Brad said, we all can learn something from each fail.

arachnid · March 06, 2017, 12:04:00 AM

As I said, it broke right where the feathered tip of the fade blended into the limbs, but there was a gap there caused due to uneven sanding (I didn't keep it totally flat). I don't have pics of the break... I kind of took my frustration on it..
My original plan was to make a TD bow so maybe I'll give it a shot before I try a 1pc.

Pago · March 06, 2017, 12:24:00 AM

Arachnid,

Please consider this. Through many years and many bowyers of trial and error virtually everyone uses rubber bands or firehose, preferably firehose at 60-70 psi for uniform pressure. I would hate for you to get another expensive learning experience trying to reinvent the wheel. Best way I know of being of helpful with what you are trying to achieve. If it wasn't a fundamental critical element of building a bow I wouldn't beleaguer the point by stating it again.

arachnid · March 06, 2017, 04:38:00 AM

QuoteOriginally posted by Pago:
Arachnid,

Please consider this. Through many years and many bowyers of trial and error virtually everyone uses rubber bands or firehose, preferably firehose at 60-70 psi for uniform pressure. I would hate for you to get another expensive learning experience trying to reinvent the wheel. Best way I know of being of helpful with what you are trying to achieve. If it wasn't a fundamental critical element of building a bow I wouldn't beleaguer the point by stating it again. [/QUOT

I guess it won't hurt to try... I'll keep you guys posted.