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grinding lam question

Started by rockkiller, April 05, 2016, 06:44:00 PM

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Krasus


monterey

Super grit looks like the answer.  Big site and you have to dig.

Funny they never came up in any of my search's.
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

rockkiller

Mark,thanks for the supergrit heads up.I just placed a order with them.They are cheaper then where I had been getting paper.

BigJim

I purchase all my sanding products from klingspoor, or super grit. Quality products and fair prices.
I generally sand bamboo and veneer with 60 because I have seen some lines using  40.
It is rare but it happens however I have an oscillating wide belt sander so instead of lines, it will leave a little wave.
Probably has only ever happened in maple and myrtle though.
When staining, I will sand to 120 or I can detect lines...don't stain much other than maple and this shows lines bad.
If sanding glass, I use 80g.
These are not hard set rules, but work for me.
I have no kown delams due to this... infact, I can't even remember the last glue failure. Not that my weeks go without their own sets of issues  :)
BigJim
http://www.bigjimsbowcompany.com/      
I just try to live my life in a way that would have made my father proud.

Bowjunkie

The main reasons I use the heavier grit are because I got a great Craigslist deal on a bunch of sanding belts and make my own strips for my drum sander with them, and because most of the 'lams' I make are actually for backing strips, backed bow cores, and lams for trilams, and such... things that are hidden, or further scraped and sanded during construction... not things that are forever visible under clear glass. And when I do make a glass bow, visible sanding lines are so rare I don't worry about it.

You guys mentioned staining... I'll have to look through my bows and see if that isn't the reason they became visible. It's been a long time since I stained glass bow lams, about as long since I saw those lines....

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