fitting the riser

[EwokArcher]

I'm working on a bighams d/r. What is the method you would recommend most for matching the back of your riser to your form, what tools do you most often use?

I'm attempting this with my 6 inch disk sander on the side of my belt sander currently with fair results at best.
Thanks for the info guys,
Ty

[Pheonixarcher]

Using a disc is going to be very difficult to get a proper fit. If you have a drill press, do yourself a favor and invest in a drum sander that will chuck into your drill. They are relatively inexpensive. Check with some of our sponsors like Big Jim, or Kustom King. They are also available from places like Eagle America, or Bingham's.

Or go one better than that, and get a Luthier's Friend! This is where it's at! It's a drum sander like above, except it has a roller bearing on the bottom of it, allowing you to follow a template exactly! It also has a vertical wall attachment that allows you to thickness sand a lamination. It's a game changer for bow building.

If you don't have a drill press, then the best way to get a smooth, clean shape is using a sanding block. Any flat block that is wider than your riser stock will work. Longer is usually better. The 4" ones you can buy from a hardware store will work, but if I were to make one, I'd go at least 6", and cut a curved radius on one of the ends. Then just staple, tape, or screw a block on top to hold your sand paper tight.

[jsweka]

Different tools for different folks...I use a disk sander and simply keep going back and forth from the sander to the form checking, sanding some more, and checking again.  With a little practice you get better at determining where and how much material to remove.  My first one took me quite a while, but now I can get a good fit in only a few trips to the sander.

[mikkekeswick]

I use my edge sander as it keeps everything square at the same time.
I don't see why your disc sander wouldn't do the same job. I wouldn't even think of using a drum without a pattern sled and a stop.
The trick is to mark only the highest spot and remove that slowly. Don't try to work on a lot 'problem areas' at once. As Jsweka says lots of stopping and checking with a torch!

[chackworth3]

Where are you in Oklahoma?

[EwokArcher]

I live in south west okc. I got a pretty good fit after about 45 minutes of back and forth. I do not have a drill press but I was debating getting a spindle sander.

Are there spindle sanders that I would be able to sand lams on like you could with the luthiers sander? I'll have to Google That, I have never heard of such a thing.
Thanks for the info guys.

[Akbowman16]

Hey Ewok - I live between OKC and Shawnee.. I use a rigid oscillating spindle/belt sander and have had really good luck with it. You are more than welcome to come and check it out if you would like. Bring your mold and riser and you can try it out if that will help ya.

[Robertfishes]

I made a jig that matches the shape of the riser area of my D/R form. I use this pattern sander on the end of my Grizzly 6x80 belt sander to sand riser to shape. .  

[EwokArcher]

Thank you guys for the feed back, I got my issues resolved this time using the belt sander.
Akbowman I really appreciate the offer I may pm you next time I'm working on one.