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Filling wood grain

Started by Mad Max, September 01, 2014, 11:19:00 AM

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Mad Max

I have a riser I'am making out of Wenge, I'am seeing grain pockets larger than other woods.

what can I fill them with?
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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LittleBen

Ahhhh yes Wenge, how I love and hate it.

I've heard of people using the bullseye sanding sealer ... I think it's the debased shellac. You could probably use anything if you put enough coats and just keep sanding back until they're filled. I suppose a sprayed epoxy finish would probably do that reasonably well. Let us know what you do and how it works.

Mad Max

Ahhhh yes Wenge, how I love and hate it.

Tell me more on what this means?
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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meathead

I have used wenge quite a bit for arrow footings. I use super glue for a filler. After rough sanding I fill with super glue. Re sand, re fill until I am satisfied. Two times usually does it although sometimes you will get a very porous piece that needs three coats.

bigbob2

Agree with meathead, fill with superglue, sand with the grain where possible and re do as much as needed. Great timber , but needs effort to finish ok.

Mad Max

I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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T Folts

I have good luck with a automotive urethane, clear coat. For wenge I brush on a heavy coat and let it cure than sand back down to the wood I repeat until it is 100% filled. Then I finish with spraying.
US ARMY 1984-1988

Drewster

Why don't you use a paste wood filler.....which is formulated to do exactly what you're needing to accomplish.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bartleypastewoodfillerquart.aspx
Carolina Traditional Archers
North Carolina Bowhunters Association

BigJim

Wood fillers will work ok in some of the woods, but not so well on lots of the exotics...then you have to worry about shrinkage.

Filling with super glue is ok...but the fumes can be a little rough plus if you don't get it all sanded off, it can/will leave a funny milky appearance under the finish.

Filling grain isn't quick but it is worth the effort.

The problem with coat after coat is that when the finish is thick, it won't get beyond the surface tension and penetrate so when you sand it just exposes the pores again.

Start with a wash coat of very thin finish followed by as many more as necessary until you start to see most of the grain has been filled. Now coat with finish not nearly as diluted.

Sand as necessary.

Not all finishes will fill grain well. Not a good idea for catalyzed varnish (krystal, fuller plast)

Wenge is just like a sponge. you can fill it but it takes time...I can't say for sure and I've never weighed it, but I believe I could feel that bow gained mass weight due to all the finish the riser absorbed.

good luck, bigjim
http://www.bigjimsbowcompany.com/      
I just try to live my life in a way that would have made my father proud.

LittleBen

The more I listen to Jim the more I realize I need to listen to Jim.

bigbob2

sure makes a lot of sense   :thumbsup:

BigJim

Thanks guys, but I am constantly learning too. My father always said I have proven that the only way for his youngest son to learn anything was the expensive way...what a wise man...I miss him.

At one time I gave up on wenge (pronounced weng-gay), but have gone back to using it due to color, availability, ability to be kiln dried and pricing.

My experience in finishing has been hard fought and for the most part, I still suck at applying it. However, for some un-explainable reason, I'm able to turn out a satisfactory finish...but not always on time. I'm just too stubborn to give up.
I promise if I had the money, I would hire someone to do it and would never...NEVER spray another!

Ok, well maybe it's not that bad but i'm currently suffering from an extra big cup of coffee and fat pills.
BigJim
http://www.bigjimsbowcompany.com/      
I just try to live my life in a way that would have made my father proud.

canopyboy

Man, I could so go for cup of coffee and a fat pill right now...
TGMM Family of the Bow
Professional Bowhunters Society

"The earth has its music for those who will listen." - Santayana

Mad Max

Thanks everybody

I'am going to use Buffalo hide from jim
Thanks jim for the info.
I would rather fail at something above my means, than to succeed at something  beneath my means  
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arrowlauncherdj

What about using Smooth-on for a grain filler? I've heard of using it as a finish diluted (diluted with what I dunno) and it can be sprayed if I'm not mistaken once diluted. Correct me if I'm wrong there. I would imagine that if you diluted it pretty thin it'd do well.

Btw what's the best stuff to dilute it with. I only use denatured alcohol in shop now. Would that work?

MoeM

What the ... is a "fat pill"??

BigJim

I'm thinking that using acetone diluted smooth on would work ok, but the sanding of it would be a pain.


A fat pill is what I call a appetite suppressor, but would rather use it to describe a doughnut.

BigjIm
http://www.bigjimsbowcompany.com/      
I just try to live my life in a way that would have made my father proud.

Buemaker

I have not tried this myself, but have read that warm hide glue is a good grain filler. Bue--.

Bow man

We use as well as several other bowyers that I know use the Thunderbird High Solid Sealer. It is designed to be a quick drying sealer filler.
Compton Life Member
PBS QRM

beachbowhunter

I've had luck with wenge by painting on coats of buffalo hide/thunderbird gloss and sanding between coats before finish spraying with satin.
Ishi was a Californian                   :cool:

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