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Another trilam

Started by LittleBen, July 28, 2014, 03:46:00 PM

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LittleBen

Ok this one is 60"ntn 1.75" wide tapering to 1/2" nocks, kept wider than pyramidal out to 10" from the tips.

40#@26" 140+fps @ 500gr and 25-26" draw.

Hickory back, maple core, shedua belly.
Used wood database data to estimate proper with by comparison of shedua and ipe.

Anything I missed just ask

Unbraced
 

Braced
 

Drawn to 26"
 

LittleBen


Zradix

Pretty bow Ben.

Still liking this design I see.

Very cool with the shedua!

I've been playing around figuring out a way to easily add a little arc to the riser area. Hard for me to keep the area just a few inches outta the fades from cracking....gotta tiller it perfect which is something I'm struggling with...lol
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear

Sam Harper

That sure is a pretty riser.
There are strange things done in the midnight sun by the men who moil for gold.

monterey

Always enjoy seeing your tri lams!

What is the "wood database"?
Monterey

"I didn't say all that stuff". - Confucius........and Yogi Berra

Al Dean

TGMM Family of the Bow

takefive

Great looking bow.  Love the way it bends and the wood combination.
It's hard to make a wooden bow which isn't beautiful, even if it's ugly.
-Tim Baker

David Flanrey


Trapper Rob


LittleBen

John, this is the one I was building while you were building yours. Since this I've moved to a similar design but with some deflex out of the riser which seems to help the problem you're talking about. I just today shipped the latest one of the new R/D design to Fujimo so when it lands hopefully he'll post some pics and you can see it.

Mike, wood database is  www.wooddatabase.com  IIRC and it has some basic mechanical specs on a whole bunch of woods ... Nearly every wood I can think of is listed. And it lists modulus (stiffness) and maximum strength (maximum stress at failure) and basically stress @ failure divided by stiffness is a measure of elasticity, it's not listed but you can calculate it. If you want more details or wanna talk a particular wood shoot me an e-mail.

Thanks for the kind words. It's got a slight whip tiller, or more accurately it's bending most at mid limb, but it's also left extra wide out past mid limb as I mentioned.

snapper1d

I think the only thing you missed was my address to send it to!

fujimo

an' i cant wait.......  :bigsmyl:    :bigsmyl:    :bigsmyl:

PEARL DRUMS

Great looking bow Ben.

Scott E

Self reliance cannot be bought

Roy from Pa


Echatham


LESKEN2011

Sweet bow, Ben. That is next on my agenda...a trilam. I can only hope it turns out as nice as yours. By the way, you still using about .005-.006 per inch taper?
For by grace you have been saved through faith, and that not of yourselves; it is the gift of God, not of works, lest anyone should boast. Ephesians 2:8-9

Kenny from Mississippi, USA

Zradix

looking forward to your post fujimo...   :bigsmyl:
If some animals are good at hunting and others are suitable for hunting, then the Gods must clearly smile on hunting.~Aristotle

..there's more fun in hunting with the handicap of the bow than there is in hunting with the sureness of the gun.~ F.Bear

LittleBen

Kenny,

Yeah I generally use 3 .002" taper lams for a total .006 taper.

Works out pretty close for 1.5" width, probably .005 total taper is better with 1.75" wide limbs. I usually keep mine pretty wide through and slightly past mid limb, or even full width to kid limb on the 1.5" wide bows. If you're going more pyramidal you'll need less taper.

Here's a picture of one strung immediately after coming off of the form, and shaping the front profile to give you an idea of how close .006 gets you. The how in the pic is 1.5" side to 10" for the tips then tapers to 1/2" nocks.

One limb is obviously stiff, but really it only takes very little wood removal to correct that imbalance.



The hinge looks a lot worse than it really is since the limb is still full width there and the form is actually slightly flat there (oops).

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