pyramid bow

[KellyG]

Ok I got 2 great hickory staves in a horse trade at MOJAM. I think I want to try my first pyramid bow. I plan on making it 68" long 4" hand and 1.5 fades. (so riser 7") I plan on it being 2" wide tapering to .5" tips.

Any thoughts, going for 50-60lbs.

[Trapper Rob]

Can't wait to see it Kelly.

[KellyG]

trapper I am going to start it while my trade bow is cooling. I am heating it now. going to clap it soon. Trying to get the string tracking a lot better.

[4est trekker]

I like to trap the back and temper the belly of my hickory pyramids. In addition, I store them where it's dry and cool.  Otherwise I find they can be sluggish and take undue set in the summer months.

[Pat B]

Kelly, I would start out a bit wider(1 3/4") but that's just me. You could always reduce the width later as you tiller if necessary.
Trapping is a good idea too.

[Bob at Work]

looking forward to watching this one...it's a design I haven't done.  Pat... I thought the same thing until I re-read his post...he is starting at 2" wide (using a 1 1/2" long fade) and tapering to 1/2" tips... :^)

[Pat B]

I miss read it. Thanks for the correction, Bob.

[razorback]

As Curt said. Watch the humidity. I was working on one for my trade and it got humid and instantly the bow got soft. I stopped working it and will wait till the fall to finish it.

[Pat B]

Kelly is in Kansas so humidity shouldn't be too much of a problem.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Kelly I just finished a hickory bow up for a raffle. 67" ntn, 55# @ 28. It finished at a fat 1 5/8" wide with 1/2" tips. I kept my limbs parallel for 15-16" though.

[Bob at Work]

looking forward to seeing the progress...then you can start on your "FrankenBow"... :^)

[LittleBen]

I love hickory bows, it gets humid here, but I just store the bow inside where it's dry and don't hunt it more than a day or two in a row and the humididty doesn't seem to soak in fast enough to amke a difference.

I've also done most of mine as PearlDrums said with a parallel section, but pyramid works really well too ...

can;t wait to see it

[White hair]

Hickory is the way I go. Elm is good too. I have never went to 2" on a self bow. 1 1/2 at the most.
Mojam was good this year. Took 2 men that have never seen that stuff.

[KellyG]

thanks for all the feed back so 2" is a bit wide. I have not removed any wood yet. I have been playing mechanic for folks I have scrapped a bit on my trad bow.

Yep Bob I have a good I deal for my frankin bow I am going to try and get me a yew billet and do a yew hedge take down. I think I will use the unbroken limb of my first bow.

[KellyG]

Ok I had to replace my blade on my table saw it was burning through wood. Well got it off and a new on so I cut out the side profile for the limbs. So I got some work done. I have to heat my trade bow so I think I might get this one do a short string after that. I will use the saw to ensure that first run was not a fluke and the blade really is working so when I start on the hackberry I am using for a fence I know it is good.

I will take some pics if I get it to looking like a bow later.

[KellyG]

Ok I have pulled this one back out.
I have it cut, Draw knifed and rasped down to my profile lines.

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still a bit thinks but I have not started scraping yet.

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Draw in the string nocks. I do .5" from the end on the back and 1" from the end on the back.

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File them in.

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Now I am ready to put a sting on it and see how she bends after I get a bit of wood scrapped of.

[KellyG]

Ok here is where we are on this bow. It is not done and needs more wood to come off but the tips are moving. If all goes well it will be tillered out this weekend. I might toast the belly. I am also contemplating trapping the back. I think now is the time to do that.

If I do I think I would do a .25" of each edge. Don't know if I will but I need to make my mind up on that before i go any further, I don't need it to be light.


Here is the unstrung profile.



Back profile
The handle has some meat left on it, but that is what I was taught. Refine tips and handles last no need to waste that work if the stave does not want to be a bow.



So trap the back yes no?

[LittleBen]

Did you heat temper the belly?

Either way I would consider trapping it. There's no way that the clean (inviolate do) back of a hickory stave is going to fail in a long and wide design.

I would probably heat temper first, then go and trap, just to make sure any accidental toasting of the side of the limb/onto the back will be scraped off when trapping.

I might get it bending more before all this though .... I'd get at least a long string on first

[Pat B]

Kelly, have you started bending it yet?
If you decide to trap it I'd go 1/8" on each side of the limbs. Be careful not to scorch the back at all. It will weaken it. You could add cooking oil to the back first to help prevent scorching and you could remove that oil later with alcohol or acetone.
Stay away from the tips if they are starting to bend already.

ps. remember you are not in Kansas anymore Dorothy!    

[KellyG]

Thanks pat it is bending but not much. Quarter" total. I think i will trap it. The hole limb flexing but gaing it is not much.