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Help with limb timing

Started by Crittergetter, July 06, 2014, 09:14:00 PM

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Crittergetter

Ok, finally got a few minutes to work on my second glass bow. Started tillering today and as it sits now it's about 3/16 positive tiller and limbs look pretty even on the tree. It still tracks a little to the strong limb. Here's where I threw myself for a loop! I flipped it over on the tree and pulled from the same position as before. This time it tracks almost dead straight, just slightly to the strong limb! Soooo, should I just make the bow this way or keep tillering as I started? I would be putting the strong limb up. Don't really matter to me. I just want a smooth bow with as little hand shock as possible!
An elitist mentality creates discord, even among the elite!
"I went jackalope hunting but all I saw was does!"
Luck is when preparedness meets opportunity, I just need more opportunities!

macbow

If you shoot split finger I'd tiller a little more till it was a little closer to 1/8 positive.
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Ice Mike

I'd put the strong limb on top and call it good. You're not going to have a notable difference in hand shock if you keep going unless you go all the way to perfect tiller at brace. You can always go ahead and shape the grip area, cut a shelf if desired, and shoot a few arrows to see how you like it. If you think it needs more after that, go for it, but you may be happy with it right where it is.

Bowjunkie

You didn't mention whether the bow was of symmetrical design or if the top limb was longer. You also didn't mention whether you were pulling from center of handle or pulling from where your string hand will be pulling when you're actually shooting it.

If the latter, I would tiller the bow so that the nock point comes straight back, not favoring either limb. That will produce the nicest drawing, most forgiving, inherently tuned bow, with the least handshock. If it ends up with negative tiller, so be it... that's exactly what it needs.

Crittergetter

Sorry for the lack of info guys. The bow is symmetrical , the shelf will be 1 1/4" above center and I am tillering for split finger.  My goal is to do exactly what  bowjunkie described with the knocking point tracking straight on the draw and release. I've just never tillered a bow this way before and was unsure how to proceed. Thx for the help!
An elitist mentality creates discord, even among the elite!
"I went jackalope hunting but all I saw was does!"
Luck is when preparedness meets opportunity, I just need more opportunities!

Wolftrail

The big thing I found is to keep those tips light that will lessen the shock if anything.

bigbob2

"The big thing is to keep those tips light that will lessen the shock if anything" X2

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