BBO glueup

Canadabowyer · April 22, 2013, 05:42:00 PM

Heres the BBO glue up. Being lazy I decided to use the spring clamps. I don't have a million little pieces of bamboo yet because this is my first try.I built an adjustable form a la Dean Torges then made one tapered set of osage lams and two parallels. The lay up back to belly is Bamboo, taper, parallel, parallel.I also tapered the bamboo from centre to tips. Now I have to wait to see what I have.

Bob

Buemaker · April 22, 2013, 06:19:00 PM

Interesting, and don't let the bastards grind you down

Bue-..

D.Ellis · April 22, 2013, 06:23:00 PM

Looking forward to seeing this one.
Darcy

Roy from Pa · April 22, 2013, 07:21:00 PM

Not too shabby, Bob. I like the airplane too:)

Troy D. Breeding · April 22, 2013, 07:31:00 PM

What glue did you use for the glueup. Had a customer ask what glue to use today. When I built backed bows I always used smooth-on. At that time in my bow building the only wood glue I could easly get was Elmers wood glue and I wasn't about to chance it.

Troy

Roy from Pa · April 22, 2013, 07:37:00 PM

Troy Troy, look at the bottom right corner of the picture ole boy. He used Spray Gun glue:)

Roy

Roy

Bert Frelink · April 22, 2013, 08:54:00 PM

Robert,
PM me your mailing address and I will send you some Boo pieces for your play room.

Bert.

Canadabowyer · April 22, 2013, 09:05:00 PM

Troy, I used Smooth-on. I have been using it for 20 years and have never used the Urac plus I buy it for my glass bows so I fugured if it will stick boo and osage together between glass it should work. Hope I am right!!

Bob

Troy D. Breeding · April 22, 2013, 09:40:00 PM

Ha!!See Minus "T" Minus "T",,, it's not always what looks to be

Troy Troy

Bowjunkie · April 23, 2013, 05:44:00 AM

It'll work fine. I've made a BUNCH of non-glass bows with Smooth On. Some I cured in the hot box, but many of them were cured at room temperature.

LittleBen · April 23, 2013, 08:25:00 AM

I have been thinking of trying smooth-on. Is it basically an epoxy? My only concern is the clean-up. Is it impossible to get off of stuff?

I don't have a proper shop, I have to work on my porch as it is right now so clean up is critical. Don't mean to hijack.

By the way, love the airplane. Would like to see some pics of that finished up as well as the bow. Looks like a speed 600 size trainer or something? 40" span?

Canadabowyer · April 23, 2013, 10:52:00 AM

Ben, Smooth-on is a non critical 1 to 1 mix epoxy. It is very good bow glue and very user friendly.Use all throw away containers and mixers. I use toung depressor sticks and paper plates for mixing and plastic drywall spreaders to apply it.And vinal gloves to keep it off me.
You are right the airplane is a Stevens Aero Squirt. 3 channel electric trainer. Bob

Canadabowyer · April 23, 2013, 07:01:00 PM

The BBO out of the clamps held its D/R very well.

The riser glueup.More tomorrow or the next day. Bob

Roy from Pa · April 23, 2013, 07:10:00 PM

Bob that looks great..

Canadabowyer · April 25, 2013, 06:46:00 PM

OK heres the BBO after cleaning up the blank and riser.

And heres the BBO with a string thats 2" shorter(64") than the nock to nock measurment(66")

HELP!!!! What do I do now?

Bob

Canadabowyer · April 25, 2013, 06:51:00 PM

I am assuming that I need to remove wood from the riser out to about mid limb on both sides because the reflex is already out of the tips.
The weak limb is on the right and the strong limb on the left. Theres about 1/8 positive to the right.

Roy from Pa · April 25, 2013, 07:13:00 PM

OH BOB.

That's all screwed up. Send it to me so ya don't get hurt or break it... LMAO

Ok here is my take on it, looks like you induced the deflex pretty close to the riser, meaning your mid limb posts were too close to the riser when ya glued it up. I place my mid limb posts pretty much at mid limb. And with the deflex and reflex, the bow limbs will appear flat just like in your braced picture. The higher a brace height you get it too, and I would say 6.5 to 7 max would be good, the more the outer third of the limbs will bend. Bows with the un-braced profile like yours will appear really flat in the outer 1/2 of the limbs because the reflex is holding them like that. Once you start pulling the bow further down the tree, that reflex will straighten out and turn into a nice bend. You just have to pull past the reflex and tiller it out from there. It's not really the braced profile that counts, it's the full draw profile we are looking for. You will be fine, Bob. My d/r bows look the same at a low brace height, they have too. Keep working it down the tree and I use the tillering gizmo to get a nice bend in the limbs. I have found my r/d bows shoot best with a 1/8 positive tiller.

Roy from Pa · April 25, 2013, 07:24:00 PM

I would pull that bow on the tree with the string you have on it till the tips are bending to 8 or 9 inches with no major hinges and I don't see any now. Then get it to a 6 or 7 inch brace height. Don't remove any wood at the fades now. Once you get a regular short string on it, those outer limbs will bend more. Then you can continue tillering it out because with the real string on it, that's how the limbs are going to react. To be honest here Bob, with bows like yours, and mine, I now just string it up to a 5 inch brace height the very first time I string it up. Because they are already pre tillered with the limb width and limb thickness.

The limb to the right, is that the top limb? If so a 1/8 positive tiller is good right now.

Bert Frelink · April 25, 2013, 07:41:00 PM

Bob,
I am with Roy, just string it up and shoot it,(make sure you wear your helmet)
Great job sofar, keep us posted.
Bert.

Canadabowyer · April 25, 2013, 09:26:00 PM

Yep, the limb to the right is the top limb at 1/8" positive. I guess I'll build a proper string and go from there next.I have pulled it down to about 18" with the long string and it shows no hinges and stays pretty even. Ain't it fun?

Bob