My board is starting to look like a bow

[LittleBen]

I'd recommend keeping the handle simple on the first one.

How long is the riser? I find I need close to 8" long riser to get a deep shelf and enough space for a full grip.

I always put the most inset portion of the grip at the bow's center and the shelf 1" above center ... roughly.

I'd also recommend not cutting teh handle until tillering is done. That way you can make whichever limb comes out slightly weaker the top limb. just my .02c

[Zradix]

I'm putting of any riser shaping till the tillering is done for certain...just planing ahead a bit.

The flat portion on the riser is only 5.25".
I started with an 8" block that I glued on.
So my space is pretty limited.
I chose a short block with thoughts that more working limb would be a plus.

I might put the center right on the grip too..just not sure yet Ben.

Thanks for the advice.  

[Echatham]

looking at your tiller picture got me thinking... hopin roy will answer this one... when i was tillering i kept my handle centered on the tree, and i pulled the string from dead center. i know we hold the bow and string from other places than center... is the 1/8" or so of "positive tiller" there to account for that? would it be prudent to pull the string from above center... maybe even base where you pull the string from (on the tillering tree) on how its going to be shot (3 under vs split... or shelf/rest on center vs above center?

[Zradix]

I had the same thought Eric.
I have my riser slightly off center in the tree so the string hook lines up where I'm "planning" to be pulling the string from. Seeing the riser is flat right now it sits on the platform just fine.

Along those lines.. The reason for the wide string hook was to try and simulate the width of my 3 fingers ( I shoot split ) rather than just having a thin hook on the string.

[John Scifres]

I would do a really simple rounded handle on this one.  I have seen a lot of broken first bows due to aggressive removal of wood in the handle.

[Zradix]

Thank you for the warning John.
I plan on cutting up some 2x4's to the shape of the riser..fades and all..and having a practice run..or two..or 3..lol

[Zradix]

I made a mock up riser just now for a practice piece.
Very very close to actual size ( give or take a 16th)

This is just very rough and I would round all the corners including the shelf/strike plate junction...didn't have my rat tail with me.

Little worried about where the top of the sight window comes close to the fades.

Does this look strong enough to hold up?

Thanks!

[Zradix]

accidental double post..

[Zradix]

Or must it be done in a manner similar to the pic below.
Where the sight window is cut in below the fades entirely?

[Mike Most]

John S. has some pretty good advise, I shoot mine off the knuckle, after 50 shots or so it always draws a little blood one day the scar tissue will toughen up.  Yeah right mikie.... but a nice round handle with a piece of leather for a shelf works wonders.

[Zradix]

Boy I don't know..
That kind of grip just doesn't appeal to me..

I hear what you're saying..just not too sure I'd be happy shooting that way.

Glad I have a few days to think about it.

[John Scifres]

Make a simple handle by faceting the corners and rounding them off and shoot the bow a few hundred times like that.  If you don't like it, and the bow survives, post actual dimensions of the handle and we'll help you get closer to what you want.  

Get the thing shooting first.  I wouldn't worry about the handle until you have 200+ arrows through it.  I leave handles pretty rough until I get the bow broken in with a few hundred shots.

[Echatham]

zradix I felt the same way but Roy talked me in to no shelf. and im good with it. don't knock it til you've tried it. mine shoots great, and that little piece of leather... its a shelf dude... and if you're handle is skinny like 3/4" or 7/8", its no different than the distance from center that you show on your 2x4.





give it a try... you might like it... and if you don't.... well..... you are going to build more bows anyway..... right?

[Zradix]

I'll think about it guys.
And yeah...I'll be making more...lol

Personally, I had no want to put leather on this bow.
I like the looks and all...Your bow look VERY classy Eric, no doubt about it.....I just didn't want to do it.

[red hill]

I also started out cutting in arrow rests. Now I prefer to glue on leather, antler, or a small carve piece of wood to create the rest.

[Roy from Pa]

Well it's your bow and you can make it however you want. But take a look at how small your sight window is above your arrow rest. Do you really think you could shoot/aim well with a small window like that?

You are making a simple wooden bow, while trying to incorporate high tech glass recurve technology into it. I wouldn't do it like that, however it's your bow. And if you decide to go that route, we will help you all we can.

Simple clean lines rock:)

[Echatham]

Roy I have seen that post before!..... and i'm beginning to think you only got one bow! lets see some of your other work some time!  

[Roy from Pa]

I've only ever made one bow.

[Zradix]

Attained perfection on the first try eh?
Takes the fun right out of making the next one I guess...

[Roy from Pa]

It was a joke, John:)