Snap, Crackle, and Pop!

[So-Mo Archer]

While shooting my board bow yesterday, I noticed bad sounds coming from the top limb when I was getting near anchor.

Upon inspection, I found a few small cracks on the edge of the backing (roughly 7 inches from the tip). I recall that this same area was the location of a hinge I had to work out when I was making the bow. I can't get the cracks to show up in a picture as they are very small right now, but they are big enough to keep me from drawing the bow anymore.

Is there any way to save the bow, like by way of injecting glue or beefing up the backing near the problem area? Any ideas our advice is greatly appreciated.

[Mike Most]

I am curious, what did you back the bow with. If they are horizontal cracks across the width of the bow, my intuition tells me that the hinge was still present in some form or other.

When I lift a splinter on the back I usually just glue it down with super glue, then wrap it with b50 or something similar. smearing the heck out of it with TBIII (both before and after I start the wrap). If its a compression failure on the belly side of the bow it may just hang on the wall.

Good luck

[So-Mo Archer]

Mike, I backed it with TBIII and fiberglass drywall tape (3 layers). The crack is the ghost of a hinge that I didn't see until someone pointed out that the bow had some whip tiller to it. At that point, I finally made a gizmo and finessed the tiller. At the time, all seemed to be well, but after about 100 shots, it's starting to rear its head again.

[DVSHUNTER]

Is just make another one. It ain't worth getting snaked on the head.

Also, but a better board and forget the backing. Try hickory. It's tuff as nails.  Having said that, if you are dead set in saving this one then I would sand off the backing of tape and add a backing of wood like hickory, maple r red elm

[gobbler716]

Take it from me, getting snaked in the head HURTS!

[LittleBen]

Yeah the hinge tends to premanently weaken that spot. You might be able to fix it if you keep trying to wwork the hinge out but my guess is you'll have a bow with the draw weight of a wet noodle when you're done.

Scoop up a nice hickory board or a cheap stave and you won't have to worry about the backing ... or unbacked red oak also works well if your tiller is clean.

Last years bow swap I received a 68" red oak pyramid bow 53# @27" and it's unbacked but is as solid as anything. Granted the tiller as as clean as it gets.

[Mike Most]

Matt,

Most of the "really" experienced guys here can see those hinges in their sleep.  :eek:   They can do that because they have been through the experience you are having many times over,  that being said, it is wise to be meticulous when looking over the wood you intend to buy for bow making, knowing you are going to stress the heck out of it. I like a 5" gizmo for tillering, but I do go slowly with only a scraper.  Good Luck on the next one...    
I think also as I see it you get no real strength from backing a bow it just protects the back from coming apart.

Glass laminated bows being a different animal Their strength is derived from both the wood and the glass in combination.

[Frosty the Bowman]

Matt, my brother

Sorry to hear of your problem  :(  
Is this your 'So-Mo Red Warrior", I know you worked hard on it, this is really too bad.

I agree with the replys you have recieved, some good advice.
If your gonna save it, back it with some wood, or just take it as a sign it's time to build another one    

Good Luck,

[So-Mo Archer]

Thanks, Kevin. Yes, it is my Warrior. I'm looking for some hickory to use as backing, and then maybe she'll be okay.

Thanks for the advice everyone! On to the repairs and the next one.