Pillar Tiller

[mwosborn]

A while back Shaun posted some pics of him using these "pillar tillers" - just had to try them.  I am new to making bows, but have used them on 3 bows I am working on now.  Have to say I really like them over a long string and a tillering board.  I am using them to get right up to brace and then move to a tree.  No tillering string to mess with etc.  I added a couple of screws to the side of each pillar and wrapped a string around them to check approximate brace.

Here are a couple of pics.  Just wanted to thank Shaun for sharing and share how it worked for me.

Mitch

[Roy from Pa]

That is cool for sure, seen it when Shaun posted it. One tip, you should round off those square edges on the sides of your limbs before tillering. Could cause the bow to throw up a splinter there or go poof.

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I need to make me some pillars and give this a try.

Better take the ol' Roy's advice and get those edges rounded a bit.

[mwosborn]

Thanks for the tip Roy - just read that in another thread too.  Will have to do that.  Guess I have been lucky for far!

[wood carver 2]

Would this technique work with laminated bows?
Dave.

[Cuban Missile]

Yes it does.

[SportHunter]

Is there a setup that works for recurves?

[fujimo]

each to their own, i geuss.
it obviously works, but i always just feel nervous about holding that amount of tension on an all wood  bow at full draw for extended periods of time, and as i remove wood, i like to exercise the boiw back up to the measurement again- to re-train the remaining wood to accept the bending-( the previous surface wood that was conditioned- has just been removed!!)- and i just like to "feel" the bow, its just kinda part of the tangible, tactile process for me, i geuss.

not knocking the system- hats off to you guys fdor being innovative- and making it work- its exactly how this forum has taken the art of bow building forward in quantum leaps and bounds!!
regards
wayne

[gringol]

Do you scrape wood from the belly while the bow is on the pillars or do you remove the bow, scrape, and then go back to the pillars?

[razorback]

Fujimo,
I believe that the bow is only bent to brace height, say 7-8" of tip movement. I think Shawn said that up to that point there should be no damage to cause set. After that point he puts it on a tillering tree or goes by hand, not sure which. I could be wrong so hopefully someone with more experience will chime in. I am seriously thinking of using this method. I have the same question as gringol.

[2treks]

Let see what Shaun Said,

http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=007353

[mwosborn]

Ya I only used them to get to an approximate brace - 6" or so and then I cut grooves and put on a string and finished tillering using tree and/or hand.  It really didn't take a whole lot once I got to the tree (at least for this one bow!)to finish it out to my 27" draw.  I don't think that would put undo stress on the wood.  

For me, I removed the bow from the pillars before scraping any wood off.  Don't know if you can leave it bent and remove wood or not?  

This was the first time I used them - seems to work better for me than using a long string and a tillering board.

[fujimo]

i stand corrected. i never read the original post by shaun. and i geuss i just assumed that the entire process was done with the pillars, (an' we all know what the word ass-u-me stands for).
my apologies.
wayne

[eagleone]

How tall are those pillars?

[briarjumper12]

I am going to have to try this on my next one.  I hate using a long string.  The fun begins after first brace.

[mwosborn]

No problem Wayne - was not offended at all!  When I saw these when Shaun posted I just had to try them - didn't have any idea how they would work - but seems like there are quite a few guys using them.

eagleone - the set I made are about a foot tall - just made them out of some scrap 1x4 pine.