flawed design

[trentcur]

Ok, I have built probably 10 bows now. I have always tried to pay close attention to detail and have learned as I go. That being said I think my designs have had a flaw. I have always done backed bows..... using hickory, black walnut, jatoba, bubinga and others. Have always made board bows. I dont believe I have ever mated really good woods together in the belly and backing. I know that not all woods are created equal for their properties of strength, as some are better for tension and others for compression. Anyway I have been watching the page for about a week in utter amazment. I love this page and the work that you have all created. I just discovered TG a few weeks ago.

Anyway I want to start over and do a build along, open to the watchful eye and critique of all you more experianced builders. Thus learn from you all. I would like to use an osage belly, what should I do for backing? I have always done pyramid design bows as well as american longbows, please suggest a design for the materials you suggest...... If you all would like to sell the woods you suggest I would be happy to buy as well. Thank you so much for your help, I really look forward to learning from you all.

Kind Regards,
Trent

kids bow for my nephew, 20#@25 maple and black walnut

[trentcur]

This bow did have some canary in the handle. Also looking back it had tiller flaws as well    
Bottem limb was soft midlimb.

Anyway, this build along will teach me a thing or two I do hope:)

[Pat B]

Hickory backed osage makes a great combo that can be used with many styles of bows. I've made them from 60" to 68" and from 1" wide to about
1 5/8" wide, ALB, pyramid, whatever you want.
 If you plan to make a cut out window, wait until the tillering is done. You don't need to do all that work before the tillering is complete and it is easier to work on a bow with an unfinished handle area.

[trentcur]

If you plan to make a cut out window, wait until the tillering is done. You don't need to do all that work before the tillering is complete and it is easier to work on a bow with an unfinished handle area.

Good tip...... you see I am learning already:) thank you Pat I appreciate it! Where do you buy your osage/hickory at? I cant get it local..... never tried a stave build but they look a little more difficult than a board  :eek:

[Pat B]

I buy hickory boards from a local lumber co and cut backing strips myself.
 You can get osage board staves and hickory backing strips from Pine Hollow I believe. They are a sponsor.

[Art B]

I don't know Pat, cutting in a shelf is the very first thing I do. So I doubt if it really matters which way you do it. Now as you go up in bow weight you might consider leaving a little more meat in your windows.

You'll notice that you're not getting the full benefit of a pyramid design (arc of circle) with that rigid handle design. You could keep your limbs parallel for 6" or so before tapering to the tips IMO. That would allow for greater  bending up to the fades whthout the fear of extra set in that area. Parallel or pyramid designs should not be based on likes or dislikes but rather on a bow's unbraced side profile. Again, my personal opinion........Art

[Stiks-n-Strings]

I think KennyM here sells osage slats but they have to be spliced. Boo is another great backing for osage.

Glad to have you on TG Lots of wise ol' fellers and a few gals around these parts.

[trentcur]

Great, well I am going to look them up and get some hickory and osage to get going. I used to have a local hardwoods yard, but they closed 2 months ago  

[trentcur]

I have never built a bow heavier than 40@28. I usually design them with 30" of working limb(s) top and bottem with a ridgid non flex handle. would performance be better eliminating the handle and allowing the entire bow to "work"?

[Art B]

Getting the design right will give you better performance whether it be "working" or not. I like either design myself. But I get to use many more of my arrows by having a window cut in a rigid handled bow.........Art

[trentcur]

gotcha thank you

[trentcur]

One more question (for now). I noticed that all my bows that I built had considerable more handshock than my glass bows. Is this a general rule or are your self bows soft and smooth as can be? Also what is a realistic fps for a self bow..... such as hickory backed osage. Are they also as a general rule considerably slower than a glass bow?

thanks agian for all the info

[red hill]

Trentcur, I don't know any numbers, but my HBO shoots pretty fast. My next door neighbor shoots a compound and after shooting one of my bows he was impressed with the speed.

[H8nonCubs]

Welcome aboard. This a great site one of the big reasons im where im at with bowbuilding. Bbo really performs well ive got one about 42# and it shoots like its 50. Super light as well. good luck