Making arrow shafts using the Veritas Dowel Maker

Started by fish n chicks, June 23, 2011, 02:56:00 PM

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Roy from Pa

Fujimo my setup is just like yours is. I have a lot of trouble with the stock twisting and braking inside the cutters. Any idea what I am doing wrong?

snag

So, they offer a straight blade and a curved one. I am assuming you guys are using the curved one????
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

akgator

Snag - I don't know about a curved blade. The dowel maker has two straight cutters. Do a search on Lee Valley's site for "dowel inserts for arrow makers" if you are considering the Veritas Dowel Maker.

Don Stokes

The doweler that I used to make Superceder shafts had curved blades. Boogers to sharpen, but worked well. Most problems with jamming, twisting, etc. were caused by blades not scary sharp.
Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.- Ben Franklin

fish n chicks

My set-up has curved blades. Works very well because the feed is gradual. I would certainly recommend them.

fujimo

the first blade- the rough cut blade has a curved leading edge- but after the curve it is straight, and the second- final cut blade is also straight.- i am going to drop in a pm i sent to stringstretcher here.

"the single most important thing, is super sharp blades- that eliminates tearout.
then when i was using the "V" blocks as leadout supports( as per manufacturers suggestion!!)- the dowell would just flip up and tear like crazy and break- so i went to the "holey" blocks- vast improvement.
and both blades each need to take a little of the material off- kinda needs to be split- about 70% with the first blade and about 30% with the finish blade.
infeed nice and stable.
if you would like( no offence intended- just not sure were your setup needs input) i can do a run through with photos for sharpening tools. i am a saddle maker- and we need to get the knives so sharp that they can glide through 1/4" of back leather in one pass- so we get a lot of experience with that-
i could even do it as a "buildalong"- if people were keen.
then as high a rpm as your drill will do and i take about 60 secs per dowell- i will time that for you tomorrow."

snag

:thumbsup:  The photo/tutorial on sharpening and a buildalong sounds good to me. Always willing to learn from someone that is experienced. Thanks, David
Isaiah 49:2...he made me a polished arrow and concealed me in his quiver.

fujimo

i will be posting my swap bow tomorrow- our nation wide postal strike let up yesterday!!!- then i will do something on sharpening.
would really work well with some video.
how easy is it to post short video segments- and how does one go about it- i have just barely learnt to post pics.
i do have a good digital video camera.

Jeff Smith

Fujimo, I believe you are talking about the other higher priced jig they offer.they offer a much cheaper jig with a single curved blade with an allen screw for adjusting blade depth. It works pretty good and you can shim the blade a bit to decrease diameter. Most twisting of shafts is because the blade is into the groove too far or blade is not level.

fujimo

thanks for clarifying that jeff.
and the solution too.
some days , from a cost point of view- i wish i had bought the cheaper setup. but i sure like the finish my jig gives, and the ability to change diameters with a twist of a dial.
the sitka i use is so incredibly consistant- run one shaft- check the spine- and then adjust diameter accordingly- pretty soon all the shafts are within 5# of each other.
i could never get that with the hickory or ash that i use to run.
but for the difference in price i could also  have bought many many matched shafts!!!
oh well!!

fish n chicks

fujimo - the youtube video I posted was my first, and it was very easy. I made a youtube account and uploaded the video. It took some time, but it was very easy. Then you just copy/paste your link.

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