First osage bow....Full Draw pic!!

Art B · May 12, 2011, 06:36:00 AM

Since you still have some to tillering to do, use a temporary wrap for the time being. I have some shoemaker's thread I use for that, but any string making thread, artifical sinew, nylon, cotton string material will work for a temporary wrap. Remove the wrap when needed, replace it when exercising the bow.

For a permanent wrap I like the looks of thread myself. Any upholstrey, jean or coats and buttons is sturdy enough once soaked and coated with superglue. Lots of other choices also.....Art

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · May 14, 2011, 04:43:00 PM

FEEEEWWWWW!!!! I think that this bow is not a lost cause. I worked more on the tiller after soaking the hell out of the crack with CA glue. Here is a tiller picture at 26 inches. The weight is around 72 lbs. I want to be at around 55-50 lbs.

What should be the next step in the tiller. I don't want to come under that weight.

The red line under the scale is the 28 inch mark

hova · May 14, 2011, 05:38:00 PM

holy %$^@ thats some balls brother!

looks good , i would say you already pulled it over your target weight of 55# , so shoot it 72...lol...

im not sure where you are headed , but i know 72# is just insane to me...good luck , wear eye pro...

-hov

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · May 14, 2011, 06:03:00 PM

Correction on the poundage. I am trying to go to 60 lbs. Should I not draw it over that weight?? If so WHOOPS

hova · May 14, 2011, 08:39:00 PM

thats usually how people go at it. im not sure where the pros will tell you to take this. you may be able to reduce poundage and still have something functional , but with the crack and the overstress , im betting they say to start with a new piece...

SaMbO2 · May 14, 2011, 08:42:00 PM

I like to never pull past my target draw weight and never pull it past my target draw length.

God Bless.

George Tsoukalas · May 14, 2011, 09:47:00 PM

First never pull a stave beyond what it takes to expose a problem. Don't pull it beyond 12 or so inches until you fix the problem. Second, I agree with Art on the wrap. Third fix the tiller. Use a scraper like tool. Easy does . Take 20 short pulls after each session. In this order-Mark a heavy pencil line at the end of the fades. Spend a few hours getting the wood to bend starting at the pencil line. Don't rush it. 20-30 scrapes. Exercise at short pulls. Check tiller at 15 inches to see if the wood is beginning to bend there. When it does, on the left limb there's a flat spot just before mid limb. There's a hinge on the left limb about 12 inches from the tip. Leave it alone. Not bad. Get the near handle wood bending a bit. Hope this helps. Also check my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

PEARL DRUMS · May 15, 2011, 07:31:00 AM

I never go past half my target draw weight, or less until my tiller is dead nutz, and as stated above never, ever go past your intended draw weight during tillering. You will have excessive set and follow as a result, regardless of the color of the wood used.

Osagetree · May 15, 2011, 08:02:00 AM

You get an "A" for effort! After having a few problems like you have expereinced, I left the steam behind and went on to only dry heat to bend osage. I feel the steam is what caused the cracks. Induce moisture and drying too quick causes the checks in my opinion.

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · May 15, 2011, 01:44:00 PM

Thanks guys for all the advice. I noticed today that my bow does have some set that was not there before. Guess this one is going to be placed in the corner and I am going to start a new one. I have learned a ton from you guys at TG and thank each and every one of you for your two cents.

I will start a new one this week. Probably a splicing job. This will take me some time but I am going to get a shooter this time.

UNTIL LATER... God bless all and be safe!!!

hova · May 15, 2011, 04:10:00 PM

id try a lumber yard near you . there are some good board bows that can teach you things a little easier than osage (easier on your wallet , and heart) .

good luck , and keep at it. at least it held together.

-hov

okie64 · May 15, 2011, 04:19:00 PM

I wouldnt put it in the corner. A little bit of set isnt that big of a deal. I think the first 3 or 4 bows I made ended up with around 2-3" of set. Do like George said and get it bending some out of the fades and fix that left limb and you got a shooter.

PEARL DRUMS · May 15, 2011, 04:47:00 PM

I agree, dont scrap it. It may have too much set, but you know why now and thats what matters. Finish it off and enjoy! Sometimes if you let them sit unbraced for an hour or so the limbs will head towards home a little. One of my osage bows has about 1 3/4" of follow immediatley after I unbrace it, I wait and hour and it shrinks to about 3/8" at most.

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · May 15, 2011, 07:46:00 PM

OK guys I will keep at it. During this process I thought that I needed to stay away from the fades. I will start working them to see some movement and not go to fast. Its nice to get some advice and encouragement to continue on a project that is this time consuming and sort of emotional. I will get back at it this week.

Stay tuned for new pictures because I defenatley will need your help guys.

Till later.... Justin

okie64 · May 15, 2011, 09:10:00 PM

In general you do want to keep the bend at the fades to a minimum. Too much bend in the fades and inner limb can project out to a lot of string follow. But your bow is not bending at all for the first 8" or so out from the handle. That would be fine if your bow was 70" long. But since it isnt that long the rest of the limb is being overstrained. Judging by the thickness of you inner-limbs and fades its going to take quite a few scrapes to get them bending. Take it slow and it will work out fine.

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · May 15, 2011, 10:40:00 PM

Thanks okie64 I will do that. I spent an hour tonight while my wife stayed busy with writing reviews for her work. I worked only on the first foot off the fades and got them working slightly. I am being very cautious on these areas. Also I am trying to work out the hinge in the left limb. I worked the draw to 20 inches where it is 56#. Here is the newest picture I have.
Let me know what you think.

http://i1177.photobucket.com/albums/x344/bowhntineverythingnh03743/100_0838.jpg

okie64 · May 16, 2011, 07:56:00 AM

Lookin better already. Keep workin on those fades, the right fade is a little stiffer than the left. Be careful on that left inner-limb, it looks like its getting pretty thin. You do have to be very cautious in around the fades or its pretty easy to get a hinge.

George Tsoukalas · May 16, 2011, 09:20:00 AM

Yes, be careful of that left fade. It actually looks like it is bending enough there. The right needs work. You can leave the stave strung. Use a scraper. 20 scrapes. Exercise at partial pulls. Check tiller. Don't rush it. Jawge

George Tsoukalas · May 16, 2011, 09:30:00 AM

Looking good. You don't need much on the right fades. Then just a few scrapes mid limb on. Nice fix. Jawge

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · October 10, 2011, 03:36:00 PM

Hey TG-
It has been some time since I have been working on this bow... A lot going on in the personal life but sice that has come to an end it is time to get back at this thing so that I can get out in the woods. The deer movement has been slim since the hot weather hit. Today I wrapped my cracked area in 70# artificial sinew and then soaked it in CA glue.... I will post pis later on when I get back from hunting!

I hope to be successfull on finishing this bow so that I may take one with it... Hope you all are having a good season!