Straight limbs on board bow?

Dave Thaxton · March 14, 2011, 12:34:00 PM

Thank you John, I have no problem leaving the bow at 72" if it will give me the desired effect and profile....and still shoot well

Dave Thaxton · March 14, 2011, 12:36:00 PM

Thank you all men...let's go work up some wood!!

Dave

GREG IN MALAD · March 14, 2011, 02:32:00 PM

Dave,
If you're using a tiller stick, that can give more set than using a tiller tree. Holding a wood bow at full draw for more than a few seconds will induce more set.
The fact that your first bow survived and is still shooting means you did good.

4est trekker · March 14, 2011, 05:28:00 PM

Here's another angle to consider. You say that your goal is to reduce set, but I believe the truth is you're trying to reduce string follow. They CAN be manifest as the same thing, but they're two different occurrences. Let's assume you start with a dead-flat board bow and end up, after tillering and shooting in, a bow that follows the string by 2". Thus, you have two inches of set and two inches of string follow (in this case, manifest as the same thing). However, if you heat 2" of reflex into the board, and then after tillering and shooting it in arrive at a dead-flat profile, you still have 2" of set but zero string follow. Like was mentioned about, set happens. Even glass bows will take a touch of set, even if in the most minute amount. You're straining material in both compression and tension, and something must settle.

Here's a red oak board bow I made for a friend. I heated 2" of reflex in and arrived at a flat unstrung profile immediately after unstringing and just a touch of reflex after settling back. So, to the original question, yes you can achieve a dead-flat profile on a red oak board bow. But NO, you can't avoid set.

PEARL DRUMS · March 14, 2011, 05:32:00 PM

Nice rig Curt

razorback · March 14, 2011, 05:56:00 PM

Dave, a pyramid bow like 4est's above is a good design to try, works real well for red oak. That said, give the hill style a whirl and post lots of pics, if it works would love to try one myself.

Nice pyramid bow there 4est, you should have done a build-along on one like that. hahaha

razorback · March 14, 2011, 05:57:00 PM

John,
What would be a better choice of wood for a hill style board bow. Are there any common board woods that would be better suited to this design.

John Scifres · March 14, 2011, 07:07:00 PM

Hickory or pecan, white oak would be the ones I would recommend. Still be best to start with some reflex and at least 68" and 1-1/2" with good hickory or 70" and 1-3/4" with white oak.

razorback · March 14, 2011, 07:34:00 PM

Thanks John, got a handle on a local flooring place that does hickory. trying to contact to find out about supply. Could be a real good thing.

George Tsoukalas · March 14, 2011, 07:53:00 PM

Dave, enjoy your bow. My first had 5 in. of set. What is your raw length? Jawge

eflanders · March 14, 2011, 10:34:00 PM

John, great response and great information as always. I built a 62" hickory backed, walnut and black cherry multi-lam, hill style bow. Because of using nothing but wood, I glued in 1-1/2" of reflex to avoid set & string follow. The bow gets some set and it's because it's just plain too short. I realized this as I began the tillering process. I can't exactly explain why I knew it then, but it was rather obvious to me. I have since built another of the same lam combinations and changed the length to 68" and it came out just as I had originally had hoped.

Dave Thaxton · March 15, 2011, 08:35:00 AM

Good stuff here gentlemen. Thanks to all who have responded. Jawge, on the first bow the raw length is 66". Grip and fades are full 1 and1/2" wide. Tips are 1/2" and I lightly tapered up the limbs toward the riser 10" and if I remember correctly that measurement was 1". In hindsight the tips and taper MAY(?) have made them a little weak. At any rate I'm looking forward to using the gizmo on the next try.Positive it will make tillering more consistant than my old 4 eyes.
Dave

Dave Thaxton · March 15, 2011, 08:35:00 AM

Jeff Smith · March 15, 2011, 07:18:00 PM

What's your draw length?

Dave Thaxton · March 16, 2011, 08:12:00 AM

29 and 1/4

eflanders · March 16, 2011, 09:06:00 AM

Dave,

That's a pretty long draw length compared to mine (28"). You may want to consider going longer than 68"...

Dave Thaxton · March 16, 2011, 10:01:00 AM

Eric,

Thanks for the input. I certainly have no problem going longer...thinking about 70". Probably going with that and givin it a go.

Dave

George Tsoukalas · March 16, 2011, 10:11:00 AM

Dave, LOL, pardon my typing. I was asking for your draw length. I see it is 28 in with glass but probably less with a selfie. Practice will decrease set on your bows. Don't worry about it! Enjoy your bow. You first bow is not going to be like a Scifres bow. I tell beginners to back with burlap, silk or linen. Back your first few for safety. I've never used a wood backing and don't plan to. Don't enjoy it. Anyway, my site has info regarding how I tiller and has buildalongs. I haven't changed much over the years. LOL. I'm a pretty primitive guy. Just ask my wife and daughters. Questions welcomed. Gotta go.Jawge

George Tsoukalas · March 16, 2011, 10:23:00 AM

I see. It is 29 in. That was mine with a recurve. I draw 26 in to back of handle with a selfbow. I remember I tillered my first to 28 in and was quite surprised to draw 26 in. LOL. Jawge

Dave Thaxton · March 16, 2011, 10:28:00 AM

Considering all of this great info.... Thanks y'all... another question. Supposing I'd like to try about 2" of reflex...how do you go about heating a redoak board to achive this? ie, what type of heat, where to heat, before or after rough in, how to know when enough or too much, etc.
Sorry for all the inquires...wanting to get better each build.

Dave