Osage Buildalong **UPDATE** Finished Pic on p. 3

[John Scifres]

KellyG, take your time.  Speed, if that's what is desirable, comes with experience.  I have some bows still in the works after several years     Lot's of times people have asked me how long it takes to make a bow.  I answer, it takes as long as it takes.

One thing for certain, I can make a bow a heck of a lot faster than I can do a buildalong.

[John Scifres]

So here's how I do a skived leather wrap.  JD "Horseapple" Jones gave a demo a few years ago at MOJam that pretty much showed the way.

First step get some heavy ish leather.  I consider this more art than science so don't take my dimensions or technique as the one way to do it.  In fact, I do it so infrequently that I kinda make it up as I go every time    

   

Then cut a strip 1" x 21".
 

Turn your strip over so the back is up.  I like to clamp it to a board now.  Then skiv or taper all the edges with a knife, a rasp or move to the belt sander.  Watch those knuckles!  Our goal is a thin edge with a thick center.  Taper the ends too.

 
     

[John Scifres]

Get ya some contact cement, a bow without a handle wrap and some newspaper for the kitchen table.
 

Do a couple dry runs.  Spread contact cement on the bow handle where leather will be and on the back of the leather (a sizing coat and then a final).  Start at the back at the top and wrap the handle, butting the edges up tight.  Pull hard and it should form to the contours.  Then take something with a sharp corner and work all the edges together so you get some texture to the wrap.

 

After all has set up for a while, rub it down hard and doublecheck for gaps, high spots, etc. Then rub all the extra cement off with your finger or a pencil eraser.

[John Scifres]

Here is the final shot of the bow with string and wrap.

 

Thanks for watching.

[Keenan]

Great buildalong John, excellent work and very sweet bow. Your discription of the scraping was superb

[snag]

John, thanks for this build-along. Very nice! I am curious as to the shelf. How do you 1)determine how deep to cut it without endangering the stability of the bow, 2)When do you cut the shelf in this process?
Thanks again, David

[John Scifres]

snag,

There is a very scientific way to do that I really can't explain without writing a book.  OK, ya got me.  I just guess.  If it breaks, I guessed wrong.  Keep your handle 1-1/4" thick (back-to-belly) and you can get away with as narrow as 3/4" wide (side-to-side).  I'd stick with a touch more than that though.  This is with osage of course.  I don't know about those second-string woods  

I never shape the handle until I'm done tillering.

[snag]

"I never shape the handle until I'm done tillering"...good advice!

I figured it was a thing where you learn it by experience.
Thanks, David

[KellyG]

So dreamy, I like the smiple wrap.
kelly

[michaelschwister]

Very nice indeed!

[Osagetree]

Real good John, thanks for taking the time!

[tradsniper]

thats a great looking bow!!

[paparick]

Nice bow!  Lots of cool character!

[beetlebailey1977]

Very nice...I like the dye job.

[Art B]

Anyone know why I get a red x box instead of pictures on John's thread? Art

[John Scifres]

Thanks all.

Art, That domain might be blocked for some reason. Does this one do it?

 

[Art B]

No, that didn't help John. Still no pics.........Art

[Red Tailed Hawk]

Very nice john, I like the leather dye look.

[burnt]

Hi John.  Im sitting here convalescing on Sat. morning wishing I was in your garage and I see this build along of yours. Thanks. That bow looks alot different than the last time I saw it. love the dye job and its an awesome bow.

[NTD]

Beautiful work!  That's my favorite type of handle wrap.