Working on a 58" Osage

[ranger 3]

Well I just started this on the long string, what do you think?

[Pat B]

Looking good. Right limb a bit stiffer for now.   Don't pull it much farther with the string that long. Get it close to bow length. Also, come back towards the fades an inch or two for now too.

[Roy from Pa]

I quit using that type long tillering string. I lost a few bows using it. You think it's looking good and then put on a real string and everything changes. I cut my string grooves in and use a regular longer bow string from the start. When I first string the bow, I have the extra long bow string laying tight againist the belly side of the handle. Use the Bowyers knot to shorten the string as I go along after working the limb tips to maybe 3 inches, then shorten the string to get a 2 inch brace height then take the limb tips to about 5 inches, then shorten the string and keep doing that till I am at my regular brace height of 6.5 inches. Then I tiller out the bow the rest of the way.. But the bow is looking nice.

[Art B]

As Roy mentioned, you can sometimes get a dramatic change going from that long string to a shorter string. Your profile right now should show more bending right out of the fades and stiffer outer limbs.

Never did like that long string boot system. Like Roy, I go ahead and cut my string grooves in and use a long string that will barely fit from nock to nock. This allows me to use a temporary short string also once I have the bow to the proper brace height on the tillering tree. This gives a true measurement of how close I'm to brace height/even tiller.

Just work those fades some more like Pat suggested and your bow will shape up a little better for you.

Looking good though.......Art

[ranger 3]

Thanks for the commits, Pat there is a knot about 8" from the tip of the right limb that I have had trouble getting it to bend there. That long is just long enough to get it on, it must really stretch. I might cut the groves in and use a longer string like Roy says.

[Roy from Pa]

I highly suggest it ranger. Also when you first string the bow and the string is tight againist the belly of the handle, you can look down the center of the bow tip to tip and see how the string lines up with the center of the limbs and the center of the handle. Then if need be you can make adjustments with your string grooves or whatever ya need to do.

[broketooth]

can you show mor pics of what your stave looks like as you ar working on it such as back , belly profile. filing in the nocks. how much character you are working with, heating in reflex if thats what you plan to do. im interested in your progress. ruddy

[George Tsoukalas]

LOL. I always long string tiller with a string about 1.5 times longer than the bow. I tiller out to 10 inches of string movement. There are buildalongs on my site. You need to get more near handle wood moving. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[John Scifres]

I agree about getting the inner thirds, especially on the right limb, moving more.  There is a spot maybe 8" from the fade on the right that is getting a bit hingy.

I use the booted long string to about 10" of tip movement.  I do this in lieu of floor tillering.  However, it changes the string angle and therefore the leverage and therefore the apparent weight of the bow.  A bow feels heavier with the long string.  This can cause you to think you have more weight to work with than you actually do.  You can counter this by going to the shorter string earlier or by ignoring the apparent weight for now.  All I am trying to accomplish at this point is to even things up and get the bow moving a bit.  

If I have roughed the bow out right, I should be close to where I need to be on weight at this point.  This is done by getting bows roughed out perfectly in profile and pretty close to final thickness, less than 5/8" across the whole limb, before starting to bend.

I always tended to pull too hard on a bow too early when I shortened the string too early.  It's probably a mental thing for me since I judge the weight early in the tillering instead of actually weighing it     Maybe I should be a little more scientific.

[ranger 3]

Ok here it is at 16" with a brace of 3"

[Roy from Pa]

Way too flat just outside the fades, and needs to bend more out at the other marks at the end of the limb tips. Last 8 inches of the limb tips should not bend. Left outer limb isn't too bad, but needs some work. You'll get it.. Just go slow. Do you have a tillering gizmo? Don't pull it past where you already have till you get them limbs bending better.

 

[Pat B]

Left limb looks good. The right looks a bit stiff right off the fades. She is ready for full brace height. How does the string track when braced? Have you tested the weight?

[Pat B]

Now that Roy posted the highlights I see the flat areas.

[ranger 3]

Thanks guys, the string in right down the middle of the handle. I do have a tillering gizmo

[Roy from Pa]

Great, the gizmo is a cool tool.

[Art B]

Without a back and unstrung side profile look-see
there's just no way to know what needs what.........Art

[hova]

i was thinking the same thing art. just looking at those pics , it looks so thick throughout. im no ring chaser yet , but the gizmo should have you working a little closer to the tips.


and dont let the 8x/2x thickness/width rule scare you. it takes more than you think to really make a spot go bad.

using a cabinet scraper?

-hov

[Roy from Pa]

It's not looking all that bad. Just needs a more even arc. Has a few flat spots that needs wood removed from. Ranger, you said a 3 inch brace height and looks like the limb tips are down there a good bit. I'd brace it to 6 inches and use the tillering gizmo to get an even arc.

 

[ranger 3]

Here is the latest

[John Scifres]

Still need to get the inner third bending more.  Don't touch the center third again until you do.